Whats involved in fitting a fender eliminater

My question isn't, how difficult or how to.
Its basically, Does the original snow plough need to be cut away from the plastic undertray or is it a separate part, i.e. is this 1 piece or 2?

Obviously if the whole item is 1 piece, then I take it the whole lot has to come off then cut to remove the original rear fender/number plate section?

Just curious, I like to know what way the thing is made up from people who have been there before, rather than start footering around with something that I haven't a clue about.

you want a Hamicad - see www.hamicad.co.uk

check that the K5 rear end is the same as the K4, and you'll be OK

Fitting is OK - take apart rear bodywork, remove original hideous piece of plastic, fit new one. Comes with all the instructions, takes less than an hour, no cutting required

you'll also want a smaller plate to go with it - try www.malplates.co.uk
go for one of their showplates and you won't need to send any documentation

here's mine



ignore the hamper

to really make it look tidy, you'll want a seat cowl as well, should be £42 from your dealer

That looks smart, although I couldn't stop laughing at the hamper and the tape. Its certainly not going to fall off in a hurry.

Yes, the Hamicad is the 1 that I would go for. Is the number plate light part of it or do you just transfer it from the original?


As for the seat cowl, I'm in 2 minds.
I said I wouldn't do too much to the bike, just a few things to tidy it up although I'm now going for a Can once I had the 1st. service and I am waiting on clear lenses from Clear Alternetives to arrive (ordered them yesterday). The Fender eliminator is an 80% chance of happening and now your saying, get a seat cowl.
Where does it all end.
Although I have to agree a Seat cowl has crossed my mind and is 1 of the most reasonably priced Suzuki OEM items available IMO.

number plate light just transfers - all in the instructions
I noticed yesterday that mine is looking a bit rusty after riding through
the winter - perhaps the stainless steel one would have been a better bet

Would the fuse box need to be moved for the K4?

Originally Posted by Valman

Would the fuse box need to be moved for the K4?

Not moved as such, just cabled tied to the subframe.

Just had a look at the website, they do a black powder coated stainless steel version for £60.00, how does this compare to the mild steel version?

They also do a polished stainless steel version. Although I prefer the black finish.

Looks like an order will be going in at the weekend.
Although, once again I think I may leave the fitting until after the 1st service, just to save any hassle??

I got a 2002 Sv just wondering if that part where they say u gotta move the fuse box whats that about

The 2002 model is a very different shape than later years - the Hamicad tail tidy doesn't fit that version

Just fitted a Hamicad to my K-5 this week (just in time for today's spring snowstorm). Very easy to fit (less than an hour without hurrying), excellent product and instructions were clear and easy to follow. Mine is the powder coated stainless steel, purchased off eBay in the States. Looks great!

Fuse box has to be tied to the sub frame, as noted above, two cable ties (you lose the little push bracket). Also lose the clips that retain the tank prop, but I drilled one of the small holes in the Hamicad base out and installed the white rear plastic clip there, which holds the loop part of the prop. I have the rod part of the prop fastened to the sub frame with a velcro loop to keep it from rattling. I believe I can find a snap clip from an auto parts store to hold the rod, as these are used for auto hood (bonnet) props. Can then drill another hole for the peg and have an OEM look.

Cannot recommend Hamicad highly enough. I am very happy with the product, and their service is excellent.