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#1 |
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Hi,
I was trying to change my brake pads last weekend and they would not come out, I think it was the pins that just wouldn't budge and I'm wondering if anyone has some advice on how to get those damned pins out, we tried molegrips, blowtorches, lubricant, tried to tap them out or maybe I need a new caliper? I hope not, it's just the rear brake is down to the metal on one side and I am finding life without it quite hard to be honest ![]() Cheers all. ![]() |
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#2 |
Just Ballast
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I assume you've got the R clips out?
If the caliper is off soak it overnight in some penetrating oil, that might help.
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#3 |
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WD40 that'll shift anything.
nah, go to a good local garage, ask for the price for a rear brake pad change, UP FRONT. Once they are commited to the price. Give them your bike and the pads, and let them worry about it. Then pay the agreed price. if they try to raise it, refuse the custom, they have to revert it to how it was, then you can do it (the pins will be loose cos they just got em out!) Paul |
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#4 |
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Is it rear that's giving you the problems? If the pins are stuck, you can split the caliper and change them that way. Assuming it's a curvy, anyway, pointies tend not to stick like that.
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#5 | |
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I may give them a full overhaul anyway because I will be changing the fork internals and oil so I may aswell do the brake fluid and it will stop on a penny and be the best handling SV this side of Yorkshire ![]() We took all the clips out and it just wouldn't budge even the slightest! I don't really want to go to a garage just for the brake pads as they will cost about £40 for labour! I may be able to swindle it cheaper though so if it comes to that I will do that but until then ![]() |
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#6 |
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ok,
when you are sure you have the R- clips out, take a punch, and gently tap em out. then try some penetrating fluid. not WD40, something like this http://www.edirectory.co.uk/pf/pages...+400ml&cid=880 the best penetrating oil ive found. if that fails, take the calipars off the bike, and stick em in the freezer, thats usually the best cause of action for unseizing parts. not sure if this will damage your seals though. |
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#7 |
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You can't tap out the rear ones though, not without drilling through from the other side- blind holes. You can recover them, but if they're that neglected I'd be pretty surprised if the seals are unscathed- so, I just binned mine and bought a new one. Quite easy to find in good shape, since the same caliper appeared on all the GSXR SRADs, Hayabusas and TL1000s, among others. Mine is off a Busa, for whatever that's worth, and I fitted stainless pins before fitting it. Once bitten, twice shy.
Never had that problem with the front though, so I'm not sure where to start with those.
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"We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed" |
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#8 | |
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Cheers guys. P.S Does anyone have a full list of the service intervals (Mileage etc.)? ![]() |
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#9 |
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TL1000 front calipers aren't compatible, just rear!
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"We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed" |
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#10 |
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Northwind was pointing out that the rear caliper for the curvey SV650 is the same as the rear caliper for the TL100S, SRAD GSXRs, and several other Suzukis including Bandit 600s IIRC. You would only need the 1 rear caliper, the fronts are totally different.
I'm assuming it's definatly the rear caliper we're refering to? Edit: Damnit beaten by the masked man again, that'll teach me to dither
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