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#1 |
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Hi guys
Well I have (well 99%) decided on a SV650 for my first bike, so I would really appreciate it if you guys could give me some advice (to stop me looking like a blonde bimbo!! ![]() ![]() So is they anything I should especially look out for or avoid? HELP! ![]() Debbie x |
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#2 |
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Hey Debs, welcome to the site.
![]() Haven't got any specific advice meself as the SV is my first bike too, but it's been brought up plenty of times before. Try searching for 'buying advice' using the search link at the top ^^ up there somewhere ^^ I just checked & it brings up plenty of threads with good advice in ![]() Hope that helps. |
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#3 |
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its a commen nown fact that the yellow ones are faster
![]() great 1st bike the SV IMO good luck check out the for sale section........you just miissed marshals which looked mint ![]() but theres a few more |
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#4 |
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Hi.Be choosy and never pay the asking price.
![]() Best get crash bungs if you think you may drop it.Do you have anyone local who can help you view used bikes,as a second opinion is always a big bonus?
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On a clear day we stand there and look further than the ordinary eye can see. |
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#5 |
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Hi Debbie
The things to look for are Check the log book ie frame and engine numbers match, Make sure you see the bike start from cold and make sure there is no excessive smoke, Check the headstock bearings by turning the bars from lock to lock, Check the wheel bearings by spinning the wheels also while doing this you can check for warped brake discs, Check the brake calipers for leaks and corrosion and the pads for life left in them, Check all the lights work and check the condition of tyres and the chain and sprockets if these need replacing then use this as a bargaining tool to get the price down. Also check for crash damage ie scuffed leavers, Bar ends, Foot pegs and the Exhaust. A good sign of it has been down the road is different coloured panels or cracked and repaired ones so have a look inside the fairings. Also check that when the bars are straight that the front wheel is if not it could have bent forks/yokes! Hope I haven't scared you off buying a bike I'm sure someone will be along to fill in the gaps I've missed. Hope this is of some help BILLY |
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#6 | |
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#7 |
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if you are unsure take sombody with you
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#8 |
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OK so I'm taking it that you haven't much experience of bikes, that's fine, we all start from there. You're doing right by asking the questions.
The only really safe route is to have someone with you who does know what to look for. The easy stuff is the paperwork. If that's wrong then simply walk away, there are plenty of genuine ones about. If it's from a dealer you at least have some confidence that it's probably legit, if it's a private sale be very strict about checking the paperwork out. - you must view the bike at the sellers address, and that must be the name and address shown on the registration document V5C (and not an old V5). Check the V5C has a DVLA watermark (hold it up to the light and you'll see it, should show "DVL" all over it). Don't believe any stories of "selling it for a mate" or "haven't got round to registering it in my name yet". - Check MOT (should be a new VOSA computerised type by now), does mileage agree with the bikes instruments? - a decent owner will have previous paperwork, old MOTs, receipts for spares or services etc. and a receipt for when they bought it. - check the VIN (frame and engine) numbers on the paperwork match those on the bike, they must match exactly, no excuses. As for the bike, look closely to see if the paintwork matches, look for signs that it has been dropped seriously, scrapes on bits that stick out (remember it's easy to fit new bar ends etc, so hunt round it). Look at the tyres, not just for whether you'll need to replace them soon (£180 ish) but also if they match (make/type) front/rear, correct sizes and signs of damage all hint at whether the owner takes care about maintenance. Ask what pressures they use (should be 33 front 36 rear or very similar, if they don't know that then be wary). Similarly look carefully at the chain and rear sprocket. Clean, well lubricated, not excessively loose, definitely no rust, teeth in reasonable shape etc. This too gives an idea of how well it's looked after. Ask when it had the chain/sprockets and tyres fitted, see if you get sensible answers. Look to see if the front and rear wheels actually line up correctly. Any signs of oil leaking from the fork seals? Chrome rusty or pitted on the fork legs? Ask when the brake fluid was last changed. Undo the oil filler plug, there shouldn't be any significant creamy emulsion, just oil. Check the oil level in the sight glass, bike held upright and not running it should more or less in the middle. Again, maintenance. When was the oil changed, what oil does the owner use? Hear it start from cold, should start straight away, no excuses like "oh it hasn't been run for x months" when it won't start. Should sound reasonably smooth and quiet mechanically, no nasty knocks or rattles. Ask how they use the choke (if a carb type/curvy one) to see if they know. Make sure all the electrics work, lights, horn, brake lights, indicators, instruments. Move it backwards and forwards, do the brakes drag? Trust your feelings, if it feels a bit iffy then it probably is. Resist every temptation to buy the first one you see. It might be a real gem, but there'll be another if you happen to miss one, so don't rush it. Lot's of other technical stuff, but that's a start. |
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#9 |
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#10 | |
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![]() I guess I must have been writing while he had posted, more or less repeated his points. |
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