Idle Banter For non SV and non bike related chat (and the odd bit of humour - but if any post isn't suitable it'll get deleted real quick).![]() |
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#1 |
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I have always been interested in Photography and would like to start shooting track days etc......
As I've seen many excellent pictures on this site I was just looking for some advice on where to start, can you just go to a track and take pictures? Are there any fees involved if you are not selling? Lenses you might reccomend etc etc........ I've got a 300d (currently in for repairs) |
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#2 |
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I have a 350D, and the best investment I made was the Cannon 70-300 IS lens. The Image Stabiliser works wonders (don't tell everyone, they think "I" take good pics
![]() To start with, get to a circuit and find a decent bend where you can get on the inside (Druids at Brands is perfect). Some circuits are better than others, you can't get as close to the action at Silverstone as you can at Brands. Some of the smaller circuits get you closer to the actual track. You'll have to pay normal entrance fees, and don't even think about trying to get a Press Pass, you won't ![]() Have a word with Jdubya, he's our resident expert... . |
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#3 |
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when i did a track day there was a professinal phtogratha?
anywho, he had his own web site where you could buy a cd with pictures of the day on, but at £15 i thought it a bit steep. HTH |
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#4 |
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If using a digital SLR like the 350/400D Canon or any Nikon/Pentax etc you will need around a 200mm lens, 300 is nice but as Jelster said you would benefit from an image stabilised lens. For oncomming corner shots or chicanes a faster shutter speed is better, the backgound will be out of focus, it's also good to get other bikes in the background to. For ride past shots a slower shutter used whilst panning will blur the background and give the sensation of movement. I dont have any bike examples as I tend not to carry an SLR on the bike.
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#5 |
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Get hold of a good monopod and learn to pan, digital is brilliant for that cos you,re not wasting money on expensive film and developing. Once you learn to pan correctly you can alter shutter speeds and apeture settings to get the best on the day, obviously it depends on your budget as to what gear you buy, dont think you need to spend a fortune on equipment. Pro,s use 200mm f 1.8 and 300 mm f 1.8 prime lenses which is great if you have thousands of pounds to spend. A cheaper alternative might be to buy a second body and carry a lens on each, say a 28 - 200 ish and a 80-300 ish. Also dont forget track days are about emotion as well so dont be afraid to take candid shots of riders after and before a session, also arm yourself with a portable storage or laptop so you can dump your shots and keeps your cards as empty as poss for faster write speeds. Last but not least if you intend to sell shots then you will by definition be a pro which means you are up against other pro,s I would advise you to check out the Beureau of freelance photographers website and consider joining them they offer a legal servive , leads , advice etc plus a yearly book called the freelance photographers handbook giving details of what magazines, publications editors are looking for and also guides to fees payable. I have the 2003 copy you can have to give you an idea, if you would like it pm your address, if not good luck with it.
Stew ![]() |
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#6 |
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#7 |
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Best price I found was £369 from an independent shop in Windsor. I was considering the 100-400 professional model, but that was a grand and just way too much.
Details from the Jessops site, but they want £400 . |
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#8 |
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Best advice..go along to club race meetings. Be it road race or off road stuff. More freedom to walk around and less cost as you improving technique. Can often getting much closer for good pics too as well.
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#9 | |
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![]() Quote:
I was hoping it wouldn't cost as much as the camera though ![]() *gets saving* |
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#10 |
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Thanks for all the helpfull comments....
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