Top Yoke removal Help

I have got myself a new Top Yoke and I have a couple of questions to ask the ORG please.

Do I need to take the bike weight off the front forks when I take the Top Yoke off?

I guessing I have to undo the center nut on the top yoke, does this mess up the bearings and what not, IE do I need to be very careful when taking it off??

I don't need to touch the shocks do I, the top yoke will just lift off them yes?

can't think of anything else yet but if there is anything else I should look for then please let me know.

Thanks

Got yourself a fancy yoke like ours DD?.

Talking from experience on my curvy. The forks are held by 2 bolts on each leg on the lower yoke. The top yoke has one each side. So you should be able to release the top bolts and take off the yoke ok after undoing the top nut. Also you'll need to take off the ignition switch, which will be held by torx security bolts.

Thanks Pete

Not quite the same as yours, mine has risers on it for some nice renthal bars I got.

cool, just as I thought, top nut and bolts on the yoke, just worried when I take the top nut off the bearings are going to jump out at me.

torx bolts, bugger guess i'll be buying some of them they will come in again.

Ah, ok. Yeah, the bearings are held in place by the big castle nut underneath the yoke.

The bolts are security Torx, or they were on mine. That means they have a pin in the middle of the recess so you will nead an extra special socket or drill out the pin. Not easy. I used standard allen bolts for replacement.

[flymo]

nah, nothing to worry about with this. You need to remove the top center nut and washer. Loosen the bolts that tighten it to the top of the forks and give it a few taps from beneath. Provided you havent loosened the fork bolts on the lower yoke it'll be fine.

Once you've removed the top yoke you'll see two locking rings. If you leave these in place then you dont need to worry about bearings in the head at all.

Thanks again, so top nut off and everything will stay in place.

Yeah I got some standard allen bolts as part as the 'bolt kit' that came with the new top yoke.

I'll have a closer look at the ignition bolts later. I'm doing this with all the fairing on so it is a little dark/cramped under there.

I'm also replaceing the front brake lines with some nice HEL performace Stainless Steal lines so I have got all the old pipes off as well, also got some new longer throttle cables so going to be doing this for a couple of days/weeks.

But it will be done for NW3

[flymo]

I had to remove the ignition switch from mine only the other day. Drilling the center out of those torx bolts was a little awkward so I wouldnt attempt that with it on the bike. If you can reach underneath or move the radiator forward you can disconnect the ignition switch connector and remove it all in one go. That way you can attack the bolts on a workbench without damaging the bike.

You'll be skidding along the tank paint with your drill otherwise

that sounds like a plan, thanks flymo racer

I was lucky and borrowed this tool which had the right sized socket on it. the bolts are loctited in so you'll need to use a bit of force. I managed to undo mine in situ.

[TSM]

Originally Posted by flymo_racer

I had to remove the ignition switch from mine only the other day. Drilling the center out of those torx bolts was a little awkward so I wouldnt attempt that with it on the bike. If you can reach underneath or move the radiator forward you can disconnect the ignition switch connector and remove it all in one go. That way you can attack the bolts on a workbench without damaging the bike.

You'll be skidding along the tank paint with your drill otherwise

why drill, just tap the pin sideways and it will snap off.