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#1 |
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Can anyone tell me the easiest way to remove the bottom of the forks (the thicker part). I'm getting it powder coated but having never removed these I'm unsure in my ways.
Thanks, A. |
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#2 |
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Before you disassemble the forks slacken off both the top nuts & the allen bolts in the very bottom of the sliders. The top nuts are easily done 22mm I think & the fork yolk will stop the stanchions from turning. The spring pressure holds the damper assembly in place, the allen bolt bolt into the ends of the damper rods. Use short sharp shocks windy gun, inpact driver, gently tapping allen key with hammer after ensuring that the key is well fitted. Dont release to much as the oil will run out. Take the forks out of the yolks remove the dust caps top of fork sliders in the recess is a circlip remove this then the packing washer undo the allen bolt at the bottom & with a bit of tapping the lowers will pull off. Be careful of oil spillage as its coming out anyway whether its in the container or up the walls depends on you. Down load the manual for getting them put back together.
I off to watch the Toon whop the Gooners now. |
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#3 |
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If you're getting them powder coated, you'll need to totally strip them.
Remove front wheel Remove mudguard Remove brake calipers (only from fork legs) Loosen top cap From underneath loosen (just crack) the Allan bolt going up the forks for the wheel spindle Remove the fork legs from the bike (bolts on both top & bottom yokes). Remove top cap and empty of oil & spring Take off the fork dusk seal and the retaining clip beneath, and then the upper stanchions should come free with the fork seals. Undo the bolt in the bottom to remove the damping rod. Cheers Mark.
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#4 |
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What's the deal on painting them black? Should I avoid and go for a powercoat? The fork legs are corroded badly.
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#5 |
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excellent, I was gonna ask the exact same question...
Cheers Mark |
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#6 |
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Powdercoating's much more permanent, but if you're not keeping the bike that's not a worry for you is it
![]() ![]() I think you need new copper washers for the bottom of the forks, and new fork and maybe dust seals, if you break them down- can't remember for sure which you ned, and which I just wanted. It's simple enough but a bit messy.
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#7 |
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After speaking to my uncle the best bet is to wet n dry then emery cloth the aluminium then laquer. This won't last as long as powercoating but painting isn't an option as will flake of the aluminium.
Also is the fastest option ![]() |
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#8 |
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Hah, I wouldn't fancy rubbing up the forks to that quality, myself... The less visible areas are left rough by suzuki but you'd need to polish the whole thing up tp the same standard or it'll look rubbish. You'll end up with an overdeveloped right arm. Just like me
![]() It will look absolutely brilliant when polshed though...
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#9 |
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So are you keeping the bike or not? You are a bit like a yoyo
![]() ![]() I think you question has been answered so no more to add but I've got a pair of forks (not for sale) , wheels , heel gaurds and two pairs rear hangers all polished. They look fantastic but were a bitch to do. Also just bought a pair of GSXR600 K2 forks to go on the second SV which I shall be turning into a hack/track(but still road legal) I'll be giving who ever buys my 650 the option of plain or polished of the above items or just put in the standard finish. Cheers Ben |
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#10 |
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I'm waiting till a Tmax comes along for a test ride. The current plan is doing the SV up, converting back to stock, then selling for a Tmax.
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