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#1 |
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Hi guys I'm after a cheap ignition advancer for my track day bike. Any body got any ideas ? 4 degrees of advance is the way to go I here.
Or I was thinking I could just rotate the ignition trigger and weld it back up turned 4 degress to the left ?! any body ever done this ? Thanks in advance. |
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#2 |
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or just slot mount holes for pick up.
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#3 |
Noisy Git
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#4 |
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aha ! That's a good idea. Are the holes on the back plate ? I've never had the sv to bits. I fitted one to an old gpz.
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#5 |
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yes,there are 2 holes and pick up is bolted to engine cover.if you carefully slot them you can move pick up 3-4 degree to advance or retard.
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#6 |
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I got 2deg by slotting the holes on my SK1, you might be able to squeeze a touch more with some determination. Very noticeable effect when pulling away from standstill on a 'normal' start.
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#7 |
The Sick Man
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thats what i did, but ive also used the key, so a fair bit more than 4deg, its a wheelie machine now out of corners, a bit too much i think somtimes, just waiting for the crank to say goodbye
showed itself off yesterday, when the bike did an almighty bang at 9k as i was at WOT, i swear i saw a flash, bike stuttered and then just kept going on, never happened before that much
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#8 |
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Be aware that you can go too far advanced, from what I recall I think about 4deg extra is near optimum for a carb SV650 [JHS info??]. This comes back to it being calibrated on 91RON.
Without seeing dyno curves overlaid I would be a bit wary of overdoing it. Basically if at any given RPM you don't see any gain in torque with increased advance, then it's at the optimum. It's normal practice to set the ignition at typically "MBT-1" (i.e. ignition for maximum brake torque minus one degree) where it can be optimised, and "borderline knock minus one" (BLK-1) where knock limited. Plug temps and peak cylinder pressures rise quite dramatically with ignition advance, plugs gain typically 10-15 degC per degree of advance, depending on the engine. Anything more than a degree or 2 and you really should go one grade colder on the plug to be safe. Over-advance will heavily load con-rod bearings and puts a lot of heat into the pistons.
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#9 | |
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I mean to do a dyno on it, but want to take it and be done properly.
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OTR: KTM 690 Duke R 2015 Full Akro SIDELINE: Kwak ZX636 A1P 2002, Red, R&G's, Yoshi, Double Bubble Screen GONE: Kwak ZX-7R P1, Full Akro, Undertray, Screen GONE: SV650S K2 Very Bruised & Without Fairing, Motovation Frame Sliders, R&G Ally Sprocket Toe Protector, HEL 2 Line Setup, GSXR K1 600 RWU Forks, Barnett Clutch & Springs, Penske 8981 Shock, Gilles Ti Rearsets, Steel Barends, Scottoiler, AFAM Chain & Sprockets, Twin FIAMM Horns, Skidmarx Bellypan, Full Micron Zeta Steel System, Cut down undertay. Forum Problems & Information / Site Suggestions |
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#10 |
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I did bunch of dyno runs on stock curvy and found nothing noticeable.went back to stock.
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