SK3 R&G Crash Protectors: Frame Bolt Rust?

[Tallguy]

Hi all,

I fitted R&G crash protectors recently, on ex-krhall's silver pointy SK3.

The long bar that connects right thru the frame & engine L to R came out pretty rusty & grotty.

The question is:
Should I be worried , or are they all like that when they come out?

The photo below shows the condition of the front left & front right bolts, and the main long bar exactly as they came out. The left and right bolts looked clean. I squirted WD40 into the hole before inserting the replacement long bar and finished fitting the protectors.

Hopefully, of course, I'll never need to use them for their stated purpose - how about using them as footrests on long journeys?! I'm a genius, me...


p.s. just used Autoglym's metal polish on the front downpipe, to remove the baked on crud that's accumulated after only a week (hence imminent Fender Extender, hopefully using Sikaflex 291). Seemed to do a good job, though most .org members use Autosol. Will buy some after I run out.

Mine came out of the K3 I had in the same state...just suppose its some moisture ingress reacting with the high quality metal Suzuki tend to use...

does that long bolt come out easy or do you need special tools?

just muscles...

[DarrenSV650S]

Mine was fine when I fitted mine but that was a couple years ago. Didn't look anything like that

Originally Posted by Biker_Billy

just muscles...

that rules me out then.

Dont feel so bad kwak - I think the GSXR bungs have shorter bolts...lol

[Tallguy]

Originally Posted by kwak zzr

does that long bolt come out easy or do you need special tools?

The instructions say to use the replacement bar to knock out the original, this worked fine even though there was a lot of corrosion. Took about half an hour from undoing the first bolt to tightening the last. Tip: it was tricky to ensure the long bar didn't stick out further on one side than the other, I used the original nuts to lock the left side in position with a spanner. Tightening the right end whilst keeping the spanner on the extra nut on the left then couldn't turn the whole bar through the left nut. Without doing this, the bar could turn and thread thru unevenly, even with a spanner on the supplied nut. Then, just undo and remove the original nut. Sorted.

i done shellywoozles today and the bar came out no problems with no rust either,
5 minute job

[Shellywoozle]

Originally Posted by kwak zzr

i done shellywoozles today and the bar came out no problems with no rust either,
5 minute job

Mine had a Kwak clean before he touched it LOL

Cheers for doing them for me hun!

ahhh I still stink of smoke