SV has a electric problem

the electric problem has returned to my SV and she is not going anywhere

there are sparks when attaching sv's + - cables to the fully charged battery, motor does not turn over but a 'electrical' clicking noise is emitted from the starter relay. the voltage on the battery drops from a healthy 12v to low as 3-4v within minutes of trying to start the motor, the battery feels warm to the touch .

At this point not one fuss has blown not even the main 30A at the relay!

take the battery out, it recovers to 10.5/11v, so the battery seems good and am guessing something is earthed, a duff start relay

if that is the case, has anyone in London (soho massive) got a spare relay for a sv I can borrow for the wknd? as i'm all packed for the AR!!

cheers,

Lucas

Does the starter relay from a pointy fit a curvey? Anyone know?

All else fails take it off. Does the starter work if you hook it up direct?

You don't Need a starter relay - but it would mean taking off your seat or bumping every time you want to start it. Might need a bit of insulation tape too.

Originally Posted by Bluethunder

Does the starter relay from a pointy fit a curvey? Anyone know?

If not it probably could. Used an ancient Z200 one on a NC30 once

[Spiderman]

Oh jeez, no mate i so wish i did have one for you tho. Go with Sohsa idea, there will be plenty of peeps for pushing you.
Just dont stall before you get to essex cos i can imagine you mrs will wanna push you and a fully kitted up bike

[jambo]

I'd hope a pointy part would fit, though checking the microfiche at ronayers or similar would be the best way to check if the parts are identical.

I'm no where near home / garage at the moment and will be leaving for the AR from work.

The main issue is not the starting of the bike, which is a little problematic rather than impossible, it's checking that there isn't a massive current drain constantly when the bike ISNT trying to start, if there is then the battery will get incredibly hot and the bike will just (hopefully) blow a fuse of get very upset.

Jambo

Well yeah... You'd need to make sure the relay was causing the fault before taking the S Marchant Bodge approach.

If it was me I'd prob check current with /without then just try starting without the relay and peering at it & prob peer at what voltage's going back into the battery too.

(Never said I was competant)



Edit: All supposing you have a Meter

Edit2: Reading again - relay could be clicking cos there's not enough juice to start the motor - which could be down to a short somewhere else?

How hard it is the relay to get off the bike and fit?

By doing this will cause more problems? I have a possiable solution in mind.

Originally Posted by Sosha

Edit: All supposing you have a Meter

Edit2: Reading again - relay could be clicking cos there's not enough juice to start the motor - which could be down to a short somewhere else?

yep, got meter.

wouldn't a short blow the fuss?

i've tried connecting the two terminals at the relay with a screw drive across it, only got some sparks, motor did not start, do I need to pull in the clutch in for this?

the battery does get hot. the voltage drop quickly when hooked up to bike down to 3/4volts (there are sparks when connecting the terminals), when disconnect it recover but with only 9/10volts. it was on full change when I put it in this morning.

could a duff battery be causing this issue?

Originally Posted by Lucas

yep, got meter.

wouldn't a short blow the fuss?

i've tried connecting the two terminals at the relay with a screw drive across it, only got some sparks, motor did not start, do I need to pull in the clutch in for this?

the battery does get hot. the voltage drop quickly when hooked up to bike down to 3/4volts (there are sparks when connecting the terminals), when disconnect it recover but with only 9/10volts. it was on full change when I put it in this morning.

could a duff battery be causing this issue?

Heading out of my knowledge really.

1) Re Fuse - not necessarily
2) Re 10v - Don't think this would turn over a Vtwin
3) Re Clutch - had forgotten clutch switches - depending on how they're wired possibly.
4) Re Battery - could be duff or something could be killing it.
5) If it drops to 3/4v when you connect it (without asking it to do anything) There's a short.

Earth good?


Would also stick the meter in series and measure current. Ign off and then possibly on (leak test)




Lifted from a CBR 600 site:
LEAK TEST
Make sure the ignition is switched off and disconnect the earth/ negative (-) lead from the battery.
Connect the multimeter + probe to the earth lead and the – probe to the battery terminal. Make sure the meter is reading amps.

With the ignition off there should be no (0) reading unless you have an alarm fitted. The only non switched circuits are the cooling fan and an alarm.

The max specified current leakage for carbed bikes is 1.2mA max.
For FS Injected its 2.0mA max.

If there is a leakage which exceeds the specified limits. A short circuit or an accessory on is most likely.
The best way to locate the short is to start disconnecting connectors one by one until the culprit is found.

Originally Posted by Sosha

Heading out of my knowledge really.

1) Re Fuse - not necessarily
2) Re 10v - Don't think this would turn over a Vtwin
3) Re Clutch - had forgotten clutch switches - depending on how they're wired possibly.
4) Re Battery - could be duff or something could be killing it.
5) If it drops to 3/4v when you connect it (without asking it to do anything) There's a short.

Earth good?


Would also stick the meter in series and measure current. Ign off and then possibly on (leak test)




Lifted from a CBR 600 site:
LEAK TEST
Make sure the ignition is switched off and disconnect the earth/ negative (-) lead from the battery.
Connect the multimeter + probe to the earth lead and the – probe to the battery terminal. Make sure the meter is reading amps.

With the ignition off there should be no (0) reading unless you have an alarm fitted. The only non switched circuits are the cooling fan and an alarm.

The max specified current leakage for carbed bikes is 1.2mA max.
For FS Injected its 2.0mA max.

If there is a leakage which exceeds the specified limits. A short circuit or an accessory on is most likely.
The best way to locate the short is to start disconnecting connectors one by one until the culprit is found.

thanks very much!

am off to pick up a new battery and if that fails I will do a leak test, on the bike that is

cheers all for your help, hope to see you guys tonight