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#1 |
Emily Howard rides an SV
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Was just wondering about peoples recommendations?
I wanted to know, what would be the outcome of some good rearsets after a medium speed lowside for example. Are they prone to snapping/bending or are they super strong and take some knackering? With regards to gear shift patterns, are they generally changeable between race shift and road shift, or is it one or the other when you buy them? Any information welcome, as well as suggestions as to what to get or what to avoid and value for money. ![]() Thanks in advance. ![]()
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#2 |
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Obviously rearset footpegs need to be weaker than what they bolt to, otherwise you get frame damage.
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#3 |
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In my experience the rearsets are knackered after an off. They can usually be bent back to some form of reasonable shape with heat but only as a temporary measure.
Far better approach is to try and avoid crashing ![]() The shift patterns are normally interchangeable, usually by just rotating the attachment that connects to the engine gear selector through 180 degrees. Personally though I wouldnt bother, stick with the conventional layout. Loads of makes to choose from. I use Diamond Race rearsets but they are getting a little pricey now at £195 a set. You can buy parts or one single rearset if you damage them. Also got a spare set made by GBMoto, they seem a little heavier as made from steel but again you can buy spares etc. |
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#4 | |
Emily Howard rides an SV
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![]() You say the Diamond Race rearsets are pricey at £195, why are Gilles Rearsets over £300. What's so fancy about them that's worth that much more? Also does anyone know, which year SRAD's fit the curvy SV?
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#5 | |
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#6 |
Emily Howard rides an SV
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The diamond rearsets look quite nice and good quality.
Was speaking to a chap in the Suzuki dealer earlier and he mentioned that some rearsets are not compatible with the rear brake light as there is no fitment for the lead that sets off the brake light bulb. Do the diamond rearsets have these, as i'd still need to be able to pass an MOT? Sorry for the rearsets pop quiz. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#7 |
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Most race rearsets do not provide a location for the brake light switch. The way to resolve this is to replace the rear brake line banjo bolt with an inline brake pressure switch.....like this one http://store.58cycle.com/product_p/press%20switch.htm
Obviously not required on a race bike though. Check out the GBMoto rearsets, almost exactly the same but £60 cheaper. The diamond race rearsets are very nice though. Last edited by flymo; 06-08-09 at 03:17 PM. |
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#8 |
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I have a set of Gilles, but I didn't apy 300 quid - I think I paid 400 AUD which is about 200 quid at the time! These are a real quality itme with everything being made to a vhigh standard. I run GP shift which is interchangable whereas some rearsets are fixed either or. Also adjustable which while you tend to stick them in position and leave them; you do get to find the optimum position for you whereas fixed ones, you're stuck.
The construction also makes a difference - some use bearings etc. for pivot points which pushes the price up. Thing which swung it for me (other than the cheap price) was availabilty of spares and the chances of other people having the same rearsets, so I could beg/borrow/buy replacement pegs etc. quite easily. |
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#9 |
Noisy Git
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I got some techG ones meant for an SRAD.
Brake light switch hooks through the middle of the lever with no trouble if you cable tie is to the side of the master cylinder. Or get a pressure switch. If you drop it, they bend.
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#10 |
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