Brake power. (or not).

I have been trying to sort out the front bakes on my SV650 (K4). The weren't particulary powerfully and the pads looked a bit glazed so I have:

Fitted new EBC pads
Rebuilt the calipers (cleaned pistons and bores)
Fitted new seals
Refilled and bled the system

The brakes now have pretty good power but they don't really come in until the lever is a long way back (about 1cm from the bar). Also it doesn't take too much strength to bring the lever back to the bar.

I have adjusted the span and I also think my lever is slightly bent (toward the bar) so that might explain why I can get it back to the bar.

So other than getting a new lever (on the case) what else is worth checking/swapping? I'm thinking master cylinder at the moment but is it possible it's still not bled properly?

How good are the standard brakes?

[yorkie_chris]

You haven't bled it right by the sounds of it.

[Dave20046]

How were they before?
Did you do new seals all round or just in the calipers/ mastercylinder.
I'd make certain you've bled them properly (sounds like you may not have)

as above..they need bleeding by sounds of it...also have u got braided hoses? if not they will sharpen up the feel a tad..my brakes work fine stop easy from speed 2 up

[Dave20046]

Originally Posted by lee67

as above..they need bleeding by sounds of it...also have u got braided hoses? if not they will sharpen up the feel a tad..my brakes work fine stop easy from speed 2 up

you using standard pads lee?

Hey Mate, I run a K4 SV in mintwins at a good level.
I had terrible problems with my brakes, i de-glazed them after every race, bled them till i went mad, fitted a brand new master cylinder from suzuki, fitted waving disks, fitted a banjo bolt to bleed from the master cylinder, then changed the braided lines.....
You know what... it was the pads all along. I changed to Performance friction pads and they were instantly better. Even at standstill they were really firm at the lever. Once they get hot they are phenominal (for an SV)on the track. Hate to say it but junk the EBC's and get some performance friction.

I replaced the piston seals but didn't touch the master cylinder.

It came back to the bar before too, although it felt a bit better before I did this work but it works better now...

Any particular bleeding tips? I have run lots of fluid through and been pumping in between opening the nipple.

I have tied the lever back to the bar (will be leaving it like that for about 20 hours) as I have been told this allows air to rise into the bottle, but not sure...

dave yes standard pads....i do remove em reg and clean em and give em a quick rough over( keeps em sweet)..oh and jynx, yes tying the lever up overnight does work wonders'..but have u fitted braided hoses?

i confirm tie your lever up overnight, job done.

Sounds like you're bleeding it bout right. A banjo bolt that screws in the master cylinder is helpful. I always get a little bubble come out of that, that dosn't work it's way down the lines. Keeping the brake cable tied to the bar works well but i find the effect dosn't last very long at least not on the race track.
Braided lines would help heaps, i'd deffo change pads again to Performance friction, they really made all the difference for me.
I also now use ASV short levers, they are expensive but never touch the floor in a crash and ae also span adjustable on the move.