Coolant flush/change?

Not sure when this was last done on mine so I'm going to do it at the weekend following this step-by-step guide:- http://www.everydayriding.org/2010/0...nd-change.html

To flush the system would you recommend using a flushing compound or just tap water?

Also I found this coolant in my parents garage still sealed - http://www.caarbitz.co.uk/Comma_Supe...itre_SCC5L.htm
Can I nab it to use in my bike as it does say "Suitable for use in all Petrol and diesel engines." Or should I just invest in some specific motorcycle coolant, e.g. Silkolene pro cool?

One more thing, do I really need to buy and fit a new sealing washer and drain bolt?

Cheers.

[Sid Squid]

Tap water will be fine for flushing the system, get it all out afterwards, it doesn't need to be dry but don't leave any pockets of water in there.

I'm not familiar with that brand of coolant, but if you were to find one that says specifically that it's suitable for aluminium engines it will be fine. Any bike specific coolant certainly will be and I'd be surprised if there were any retail available ready mixed ones that weren't - but be sure.

You won't need a new bolt, and as it is at a very low torque setting the washer is unlikely to be damaged, thus will almost certainly be OK for reuse. However take a look at it before refitting it, if it's not flat on both sides it won't seal, light damage could be dressed with a flat file, not a ******* obviously .

[embee]

If it's particularly smelly (sort of unpleasant bacterial/sweaty type odour) then flush with clean tap water. If it's not all that old and I'm using the same type coolant I don't bother to flush it.

I'd only consider a flushing agent if I thought there was any serious contamination like oil etc., otherwise just tap water.

The only observation I'd make about the Comma stuff is that it isn't really "long life" (despite what they say, long-life usually means 4-5yrs life), and it doesn't say whether it is "silicate free", which is desirable to be confident you won't get any pump seal issues. For what it costs I'd be inclined to get some silicate free proper long-life stuff, take your pick really, Halfrauds do it at reasonable price, I use Toyota Red coolant (for my car) in everything I have.

Thanks for the informative replies Sid & embee, much appreciated.

As I'm not on a budget I'll go for a motorcycle specific one which states it's silicate free for peace of mind, and check that washer as well before I torque it up.

Hope the old that comes out isn't too scummy!

[embee]

Doesn't need to be bike specific, just suitable for alum engines (any proper long life one almost definitely will be as Sid suggests) and silicate free.

[mikerj]

Is OAT coolant suitable for the SV? Got a new radiator to fit to my dads curvy, and have most of a 5 litre bottle of OAT coolant left from doing a coolant change on my car.

[_Stretchie_]

Don't forget to start the bike and let the engine get up to temperature so the thermostat opens

[embee]

Originally Posted by mikerj

Is OAT coolant suitable for the SV? Got a new radiator to fit to my dads curvy, and have most of a 5 litre bottle of OAT coolant left from doing a coolant change on my car.

Almost certainly fine, OAT is generally the more expensive end of the range of coolants, invariably silicate free and effectively long life. Any idea of the brand?

If you search on the subject you'll find a couple of reported issues, one with GM in the states, but like so many things I'm pretty sure there was more to the story than simply the issue of the OAT coolant. It is widely used in modern cars.

If changing from glycol based to OAT coolant it is a good idea to flush with clean water fairly thoroughly.

[mikerj]

It's Bluecol 5 year life coolant. I know OAT coolant is not very friendly to some of the elastomers used in seals and gaskets.