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Old 30-03-11, 07:26 PM   #1
BBadger
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Angry Brake bleeding - how?

in this section as its for the dr350 not an sv.

so im open to ideas of magic and leprechauns as im stumped.
As per the title im trying to bleed the front break on the dr350 which seems to be a common problem.

started with back bleeding followed by normal bleeding then leaving to stand for a few hours the the hose straight and the calliper raised above the bike.

but still nout and its about 36 hours later.

theres some pressure there but only right at the lever, and only once pumped a few times.

fill me with your wisdom or insane ideas mighty org.
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Old 30-03-11, 07:35 PM   #2
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Default Re: break bleeding

Well firstly, it's brake not break

Are you absolutely sure your master cylinder isn't blowing?
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Old 30-03-11, 07:47 PM   #3
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Default Re: break bleeding

Well havent had bubbles in a while even with added back bleeding and excessive pumping.
banjo's are tight and calliper is bled and all sorted so im happy with the bottom end of things.
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Old 30-03-11, 07:50 PM   #4
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Default Re: break bleeding

If you're getting smooth flow with no bubbles then a seal must be letting go somewhere surely ?
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Old 30-03-11, 07:54 PM   #5
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Default Re: break bleeding

Does sound the the most probable option but it was working before it was stripped down so im assuming it would still be working...was just wondering if there was any way of 100% priming the mc.

somthing to mention is when pumping with the cover off i get a small jet of fluid coming from the hole in the bottom of the mc ( so fluid shoots upwards from the hole to the piston )
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Old 30-03-11, 08:03 PM   #6
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Default Re: break bleeding

Have you tried cable tieing lever to bar overnight with resevoir cap on loose? this allows bubbles to float upwards.

Also i found when bleeding the brakes on a gsxr which were a bitch i had to clamp the pistons fully seated in calliper then bleed to get solid resistance and pump them out. I also found just craking the nipple slightly helped as before i was opening it to far and i think air was getting through the threads loosing pressure.

Good luck!!
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Old 31-03-11, 11:42 AM   #7
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Default Re: break bleeding

leed the master cylinder by cracking the nut on the banjo enough for it to leak when there is sufficient pressure in the leaver to do so,

be quick and put clothes under the cylinder to catch the fluid.

This will get rid of any bubbles in the cylinder.
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Old 01-04-11, 03:21 PM   #8
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Default Re: Brake bleeding - how?

Some think it's overkill and unnecessary, but I've always recommended Mityvac vac bleeders. You might well find them a bit cheaper than that link.

Basically you simply suck the fluid through in a continuous flow, and as long as you don't let the reservoir run dry it'll draw all the air out. It really does make it pretty much foolproof, and if you're going to be doing brakes in future at all it is a good investment.
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Old 01-04-11, 03:51 PM   #9
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Default Re: Brake bleeding - how?

Quote:
Originally Posted by embee View Post
Some think it's overkill and unnecessary, but I've always recommended Mityvac vac bleeders. You might well find them a bit cheaper than that link.

Basically you simply suck the fluid through in a continuous flow, and as long as you don't let the reservoir run dry it'll draw all the air out. It really does make it pretty much foolproof, and if you're going to be doing brakes in future at all it is a good investment.
got one of these, cant recommend them strongly enough!
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Old 01-04-11, 03:59 PM   #10
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Default Re: Brake bleeding - how?

How are you bleeding it, sometimes nipple open and pumping fluid thru does not work. One way is to pump the lever holding it in, loosen the nipple and as the lever moves to the bars nip it up again. Repeat many times.
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