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#1 |
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Fingers crossed I should be doing my fork oil change this Sunday, will be going to Halfords or local bike shop to buy.
At 8 1/2 stone geared, on standard forks, which Fork Oil should I be aiming to get? Right now I know cooking oil is probably better than the dish water I have in there at the moment, but I want to know which brand to be keeping an eye out for. Halfords stock (as far as I can work out): Halford own brand, labeled at 10W30 Castrol Fully Synth 10W Local bike shop is a Silkolene shop, all they have is Silkolene. Aiming for occasional track use and fast hooligan riding. Ta! |
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#2 |
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Which one do you like the colour of?
![]() I use PJ1 for preference because 1) My local bike shop stocks it. 2) By a happy co-incidence the viscosity is close to Kawasaki / Suzuki oil of the same label. However, when I needed oil in a hurry I've used Motul, Castrol, and lord know what besides. The forks aren't all that sophisticated, I wouldn't worry about the brand too much. Jambo
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#3 |
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Ive just replaced mine today with silkolene pro rsf 10w oil
as you said better than the rubbish that was in it. had to do the oil because a fork seal was leaking. on a short ride round a couple of twisty bits seems alot stiffer turning in better, and rides the bumps better. im on the pluss side of a portly 17st fully kitted. replaced both seals whilst i was at it, never done it before. the first one took abiut 2 hours the second took about 45 mins. the longest part was taking the bike apart and putting it back again. started at 10 am finished at 4ish but did replace the front indys at the same time with some dinky ones which i had to fabricate some brackets for. so take of 1 & half hours for this. got quoted £60 per fork to replace the seals and oil. saved £100 in all. |
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#4 |
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hong. i would not go 10w at your 8.5 stone. 5 or 7.5 would be better. if you can get the silkoline pro rfs.
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#5 |
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Aha. See I was thinking of possibly 15w, glad I asked lol. I'll see what is available tomorrow.
Am I right in thinking if I use a measuring jug, and put in the same amount that comes out I can skiP the air gap measurement? 1litre enough for both forks? I do have a manual but I'm chillin in bed and it's in the shed with all the massive spiders! I think 5w might be a bit too light though - saying that I have no experience So you'd know better. |
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#6 |
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1 tip dont smell the old oil, dont ask why i did becuase i dont know why, it made me gag so much that i nealy saw my bacon sarnie again.
2nd tip dont do it on the next one as it will make you do the above. yes i sniffed the first one and must of forgot what it smelt like so did the same thing on the next. 1 word come to mind. NUMPTY always check your air gap. what i did was to det the digi scales out, got a clear plastic pint glass put it on the scale and weighed 491 grms of water 1 grm = 1 ml put a marker pen line where the top of the water is. tipped water out dried the glass ( i did this first before even starting to take bits of the bike so that the glass can be copleatly dry) filled the glass to the line with oil tipped in the fork ect and checked the gap. ect ect Last edited by stew; 29-04-11 at 10:38 PM. |
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#7 |
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Lol. Iv been told it smells like rotten fish.
Would you agree? |
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#8 |
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Fork oil mostly controls rebound. Try 10w in whatever brand you want.
Forks a bit loose in rebound are a bit unnerving, forks too tight in rebound are f***in terrifying.
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#9 |
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rotten fish its worse than that
listen to yc he knows his stuff |
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#10 |
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