Engine rebuilds 1st 100 mile oil change

[muzikill]

Upon the advice of those in the know i changed the oil in the k3 engine rebuild the other week heres how it looks

How Fresh oil looks..... whisky colour!





And heres the oil that came out when it was changed...


Just shows you how much crud can get in when doing a rebuild even in a dry cleanish shed.

Oh btw since the bike holds approx 3 litres of the stuff i didnt have a oil pan to catch it all but i hit upon a simple solution to this...



Hole in the side to drain out the used oil instead of pouring it out all over the shop, it fits under the sv perfectly and after a good scrub i can still use it for other diy washing stuff.

Clearly shows changing the oil within the first 50-100 miles is worth doing after doing any major work on the engine to prevents any 'bits' getting kept in and causing later problems. Theres was sedement at the tail end of emptying the basin. Not much but considering how minute the oil jets are at the key point in the engine then it 'could' cause a problem if it's not done.

Also, ive replace the 5w/30 with 10w/30 since i made an erse of it the first time, i noticed a huge difference changing gears so to those who run the 'other' stuff don't your gears feel too 'clicky'?

I've now hit around 250 miles on the bike now, half way mark to the first service after the rebuild.

Originally Posted by muzikill

That looks like a couple of years worth of chain oiler fodder to me

Seriously though it is amaising how much crap hides in all the little nooks and crannys, those bits that look clean-ish and ready to go can conceal allsorts.

Ive been doing a 150 engine for my old CG125 and re-buiding the gearbox was an eye opener, the gears looked ok, I had left them covered in old oil and almost just slapped them back together, but no, I got the old washing up bowl and recruited it's services as a parafin bath. I seriously could not believe the amount of crap and bits that came out of those gear clusters so that was it, everything got a good clean and brushing with a stiff nylon brush before being smothered in assembly lube and fitted.

[jambo]

While I'd agree that it's well worth doing an oil change shortly after any major work to see if there any problems and remove any particulates I'll say again:

Oil looks black very quickly, this is good because it's job is to hold particulates in suspension. You could build a fluid that left all the bits of carbon where they were, but then they'd clog up your motor, and an oil change would be fairly pointless. As my mum kept saying "That it looks black shouldn't surprise anyone who's aware fire is involved in the running process" .

Jambo

[Dave20046]

Originally Posted by muzikill

Just shows you how much crud can get in when doing a rebuild even in a dry cleanish shed..

As jambo says It's almost irrelevant how clean the rebuild was it's been in a working combusting motor.

Mine must be a very clean burning motor then, the oil in there has been in for 3K miles and it's not that dark yet...

[Dave20046]

Originally Posted by Stonesie

Mine must be a very clean burning motor then, the oil in there has been in for 3K miles and it's not that dark yet...

hmm, don't know what's at play behind that? I always thought it was black after any sort of miles that's what I've always found on my bikes & cars. I've driven my car literally about 3 miles and it's been pretty dark - you wouldn't have known it was new oil.

My car is the opposite, like yours it's like it adds a black dye to the oil as soon as you get it warmed through, going to try some diesel spec oil next time it's changed for 1K see if that cleans it out.