Stuck fork rebound adjuster

Have just transplanted a set of CBR600 F3 internals into the hairnet's lowers. Much nicer bike now, and really easy to do - should be easy on an SV, too, and gives more adjustable twiddly bits (and much, much nicer suspension than damper rods).

However, after reassembly, one of the rebound adjusters will no longer turn properly. I set everything to fully wound out before disassembly, and it all went back together the same way. The left leg one is absolutely fine and gives me a full 2.5 turns of adjustment, but the right leg gives me all of about 1.

I took the caps off, and the adjuster will turn all the way in/out when not in the fork - it's only when it's installed that the issues occur.

Ideas?

[TamSV]

I don't know if the CBR forks are any different, but on my GSXR forks I wound the adjusters all the way in on reassembly (well, not quite all the way in - the manual sets a height for the adjusters).

The fork cap then gets wound onto the cartridge rod until the bottom of the rebound adjuster makes contact. So that becomes the fully "in" position and the adjusters can then be turned out from there.

You might have one of the fork caps set in a different position now, so that will affect the range of available adjustment.

Sorted. Numpty that I was, I moved the locknut on the damper rod for the right fork, so when I put it back together (with it at fully soft), the rebound adjuster bottomed out, hence no adjustment.

Now working fine, and a precautionary check of the other fork showed that that one I'd been lucky at got away with. Note for future: All the way IN, not out

Thanks!

Thread hijack:
Can the cartridges from another bikes forks go into the sv forks?
(excuse me if this sounds ridiculous - I am technically minded but forks are beyond me )

Yep, these exact ones, in fact. CBR600 F-3 forks. I know they'll definitely go into curvy lowers as some of the guys on SVrider have done it, unsure if there are any differences with pointy ones. You need:

CBR Stanchions
CBR fork caps
CBR internals
CBR buttom bush
CBR bolt to hold in the internals

SV fork lowers
SV top bushes
SV fork +dust seal

I believe that the hole for the bottom bolt needs to be drilled out to a larger diameter to accommodate the CBR bolt.

The stanchions are almost certainly longer than the SV ones, so you'd need to measure the forks before and after and then push the forks up through the yokes by the difference to make sure that the geometry of the handling isn't affected.

It took me all of about 3 hours to do on the hornet, and that's having never taken apart a set of cartridge forks before.

Hmmm. Interesting. Seems a bit easier than an entire front end swap.

That's basically why I did it. One of my stanchions got pitted and so I needed a replacement...but for the £95 I'd pay for a replacement stanchion, I got a set of F3 forks from eBay.

The alternative option for Hornets is transplanting an F4i front-end, which is nice, but means milling out the yokes. This way was really simple, and although I don't get to adjust compression damping, I've got *far* superior suspension. I've not even dialled it in yet, and the bike handles much, much better, gives more feedback, and is now ridiculously comfortable.