Spring Curvy SV rebuild project underway!

Hiya. I've had a mountain of SV parts and partial SV projects sat around for years in the garage and it's come time to get one finished and on the road. I sold all my bikes last year to raise the cash for a deposit to get on the property ladder so was bikeless for the last half. Determined to get an SV on the road to enjoy all this year.

I moved the most complete bike (that has been stood motionless for 6 years) round to a mates garage with light and power. After all day Saturday in the garage we got the bike to this stage

YouTube video of engine running for first time

The tickover is pretty smooth now we've tweaked the adjuster. Genuine mileage reads 17,500 on the clocks so it's a low mileage engine for a 12 year old bike! (2000 W)

The only issue now is a few oil leaks. One is from the oil filter but will be dropping the oil and replacing the filter anyway so not worried about that.
The second is from the clutch pushrod oil seal. The seal is brand new (fitted on saturday but the rod is pretty crusty so I'm assuming a polished up (or new) pushrod will solve that one. The final one is from the drive shaft. Again I had put a new seal in but did not think to check the o-ring behind the sprocket spacer so I guess it must be coming from there?

Does everyone agree with my analysis above? Any other advice would be greatly appreciated as would tips on getting the drive shaft oil seal on more easily (as I have already ordered another one ) It kept turning inside out!

The final spec of the bike will include the following items that I have had in the garage for at least 5 years:

Full Arrow stainless race system with titanium high level silencer (needs repacking)
Stage 3 dynojetted carbs
BMC Race air filter
Extremetech steering damper
Powerbronze DB tinted screen

I'll be updating this thread with pics and progress reports over the coming weeks.

Chris

I realised that my question was kind of muddled in amongst the rest of the post so I thought I'd separate it out.

I have a leak from the pushrod oil seal and drive shaft oil seal even though the seals are brand new and have just been put in. The clutch pushrod is a bit corroded so I have ordered a new one, that should sort it right?

Do you think that the o-ring behind the drive shaft seal could have perished and needs replacing? Again, i have ordered a new one. Does anyone have tips for getting the drive shaft seal on more easily, it was really difficult and kept turning itself inside out. Should I spend a bit more time cleaning up the drive shaft, grease the shaft and the seal more before sliding it on etc.

Apart from the o-ring, drive shaft seal, pushrod and pushrod seal can anyone think of anything I've missed?

Thanks in advance

Chris

Have you torqued the front sprocket nut correctly? If that nut isn't tight enough some oil leaks past the seals. I'm not sure how but Sid Squid told me this, and when i torqued the nut the oil stopped leaking.

Thanks for the reply Serdna. I hadn't tightened the sprocket up, nipping it reduced the oil to a tiny weep rather than the constant drip...drip...drip. I have already ordered the oring so I'll replace it anyway, better safe than sorry
Had her running again today, starts first time every time now that she's been run a bit to clear out the cobwebs.
The bank account will get a hammering tommorrow for the rest of the parts I need but hopefully it will be the main outlay until tax, MOT and insurance come along.
I'll take some more pics next time I'm at the garage and post them up.

Looking forward to your updates and pics as the project gets underway. Good luck.

H

New battery went on last night. Picked up sprocket spacer o-ring and new clutch pushrod last night from local dealer, will be doing those on Saturday. New drive shaft seal on the way too. Fork seals ordered and despatched this morning.
Was going to go naked but have now decided on full faired since I have all the panels, seems a shame not to.
She will be a dark metallic red, I think it's Candy Antares Red?
I need to pull the fuel tap/filter off one of my damaged tanks as the one I have is split or cut the hose and put in an inline filter.
Gonna find some squidgier (yes it's a real word) carb and airbox rubbers in my garage as the ones on it are a little hard.
The sidestand switch has decided to stop working so that needs swapping out too. I'm just glad I have spares of all these things!
Shock linkage wants cleaning and greasing, it's moving but wants doing anyway.
Front calipers have been cleaned and goodridge lines are on ready for the wheel and tyre now.
All wheel bearings seem ok so I'll leave them for now.
Standard exhaust will stay on for MOT so no rush to repack the Arrow.
Still need to order chain and sprox and tyres but parts wise, I'm hoping that's it apart from a couple of fasteners.

Photos this weekend I promise

Chris

Here is mine I have build from bits I had lying around and bits I picked up, even rebuilt the top end off the engine.

GSXR600 Front end
GSXR 750 rear shock
GSXR400 Calipers
LC Headlight
Koso DB02R Dash

Pictured in my van as I'm off to my mates engineering place to manufacture a link pipe for the high level exhaust.

Needs the wiring tidying up and some paint and its good to go!!

Cool have you already started a thread with pics to show start to finish?
What's the deal with the tank, looks like plasticine?

No couldnt be arsed with a build thread just got on with it when I had the time.

Tank had a couple of small dents and was very rusty (i was given it free from the org) so they have been pulled out, lightly filled and the rust removed, then primed and spotted (spotting is the term we use to put a light spray of a dark colour over the primer so when you are flatting the primer the dark colour gets removed and you can see where you have flatted).

When I get the topcoat paint I will use flat it back and it wont look like plasticine.

Originally Posted by hardhat_harry

When I get the topcoat paint I will use flat it back and it wont look like plasticine.

I'm sure it will look like a minter when it's done