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#1 |
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Oi oi, not as exciting as it sounds
The back door on the house is becoming a pain in the bottom (back door, bottom) to close now its gettin cold (wooden door + window, Wooden frame). Should i just lube it up? (back door, pain in the bottom, innuendo police?) appropriate lube suggestions here... (i have cooking oil, butter and wd40) or is there something else more appropriate i should do, its a rented house so not a major problem, just dont really want to knee the door shut at 1am when i've been out to the garage to cuddle my sv n av a sneaky fag for the rest of the winter Last edited by chezvegas85; 19-10-12 at 11:27 PM. Reason: asterisk removal |
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#2 |
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Location: Llanwrtyd Wells Powys
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candle wax lubes wood well
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#3 |
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wow, that still sounds post watershed. cheers pal
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#4 |
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So the door has swelled?
Reasons why doors swell in wet damp weather is, its an natural product so will always 'move' but the most common mistake people make is not painting or staining the whole door, sides, top and bottom need to be done, this reduces the amount of moisture the door will absorb. Back to the current problem, it will need planing, do it while it's like this and next time it swells, it should still close ok. |
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#5 |
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My back door swells when it gets wet (wayhey). Garage door that is. I attacked it with an angle grinder last winter and shaved the edge off. Then did it again and shaved some off the bottom edge. Still sticks. I've just decided I'll be kicking the crap out of it for the rest of it's days and it bloody deserves it too, the cheeky wooden swine!
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MotoGoLoco - You knows it The Shed - Suzuki GSX-R 750 K1 | Triumph Tiger 1050 K6 Fallout Bikes (VLogs, Tutorials, Bike Vids) Fallout Breakbeat (My Music) |
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#6 |
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unsure if the door has swelled or the has frame contracted. yes, i am an egit.
have a (compression, no flue) tumble dryer that steams everything up (although does save on central heating) so your probably right as the landlady seems to of botched just about everything, i have varnish from doing some cabinets, would that be suitable? dont want to be planing the door as i'm (as previously mentioned) an egit and its not my house. May invoke cx5's friendship clause as he's good with wood...oh dear Last edited by chezvegas85; 19-10-12 at 11:42 PM. |
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#7 | |
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#8 | |
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Or without the double entendres.... It's probably rain blowing onto the outside of the door, then running into the gap at the bottom. There it soaks into the wood making it swell up and stick. Use a power planer to remove a couple of mm from the bottom of the door, then two coats of gloss paint to stop it soaking up water in future. Last edited by keith_d; 20-10-12 at 08:02 AM. |
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#9 |
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What are you implying?! *slaughters a goat to appease the evil Gods, ravages 20 maidens, ethnically cleanses jupiter*
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MotoGoLoco - You knows it The Shed - Suzuki GSX-R 750 K1 | Triumph Tiger 1050 K6 Fallout Bikes (VLogs, Tutorials, Bike Vids) Fallout Breakbeat (My Music) |
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#10 |
Evel Knievel
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you wont need an electric planner, it will literally be two shavings right across the bottom then seal it. you have to remember as SP said timber expands and contracts, if you go whacking the bottom off with an electric planner the door will contract when the weather warms up and you'll be left with massive gap on the bottom of the door, resulting in drafts ect.
take the door of, shave it off with a HAND plane, check it fits, seal it (with an exterior paint, will be cheaper than varnish and colour doesn't matter as it won't be seen), the re-hang the door job done. or as you say you have a landlady, then nag her to sort it, its someone cutting costs that's caused the problem in the first place. wouldn't possibly be the landlord tho ![]() the only other thing it could be is the hinges or frame buckling under the weight but this is ruled out as the top, side corner would also be rubbing. Last edited by Wideboy; 20-10-12 at 09:59 AM. |
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