fork height

I wish to drop the forks through the yoke clamps to improve turn in....does anybody know the limits as to how much to change i.e 5mm 10mm 20mm ?

Interesting question, something I'm attempting to find out at cadwell July 23rd.
I've had them set for the past 2 trackdays so that they were 5mm proud of the yoke measured to the top cap, top face.
Now its 15mm so a 10mm drop. probably a big jump but I want to feel the difference!
I'm also going to fit my shorter shock suspension links to raise the rear, might help my 6'3" frame. (I'd prefer a height adjustable shock but don't have funds for that!)
The fork height is pretty easy to adjust on the day if you have a headstock stand so I guess you could play around.

Really it depends on the fork internals. 5mm will be hardly noticeable but there's a point wherein stability will be sacrificed so your internals better be up to the job. Rear shock height is a better option as you can make more noticeable (efficient) changes with the right shock. Dogbones are the cheaper option as pointed out but only offer the 1 extra setting for adjustability.

What internals/forks and shock are you running?

[jambo]

Be aware the forks have something like 120mm of travel. At 15mm drop I'd double check that your dust seals won't hit the bottom yoke at full compression. I can't remember the limit off hand but I'd suspect that's close.

Jambo
Sent from my thingie

Hence question re internals.

Maxton rear shock. Maxtin fork springs/ internals.

Originally Posted by Well Slow

Maxton rear shock. Maxtin fork springs/ internals.

If you have ride height adjustment in the Maxton rear's I'd start there. For every incremental change at the back, you'll get a progressive increase in rake which should help turn in. Some smarter people than me say the dogbones route is easiest but not necessarily best because the shock may be out of its natural progressive curve if raised up using dogbones. So adjustable shock height is probably best. Either way you should only make small incremental changes and properly test before you decide on the final settings.

Running Maxton front catridges properly damped and sprung should allow you to raise the forks in the yokes without bottoming out issues but the above applies.

Tank slappers are also an issue when the forks are dropped too far through the yokes.

I had my forks dropped 20mm at 3 sisters, had a tankslapper on the way home and the bike was written off.

You've been warned.

Originally Posted by Elliott

I had my forks dropped 20mm at 3 sisters, had a tankslapper on the way home and the bike was written off.

You've been warned.

Yours was the case that stuck in my mind most.