sticking front calipar

got a problem with me suzuki and wondering if any of u guys could shed some light on the subject.

suzuki (125cc) comes home friday nite. everything is fine

goes out tuesday morning to work,
notice that the engine seems to be labouring a bit and the engine brake is a bit strong.
pull over to check it out.
front wheel is not turning round properly, there seems to be quite a bit of drag - as in it doesnt spin when you turn it, just stops the moment you stop spinning.
touched the brake disc - bl**dy HOT !!!.
im guessing that the pads are rubbing causing the disc to be so hot.
not going to ride it until ive sorted it out incase i lose the front end on a corner or something. . .

whats the common cause of this (fluid levels are fine) brake seems to work when i apply pressure to the lever.

going to take the calipar apart monday (my next day off) so i can see whats causing the problem.

any idea's as to where to start ? whats causing it and why ?

[rictus01]

I'm not sure on these little bikes , but believe the callipers are much the same in their design, a good service should sort it out.

Two ways of doing this,

Complete service (need a seal kit)

1. remove calliper from wheel.
2. remove pads from calliper.
3. pump brake until calliper piston pops all the way out.
4.clean the rim of the pot housing(s) .
5.clean the line of crud from around the top of the piston(s).
6. remove any screws or bolts, copper grease them and replace.
7. pry out the two seals in each pot (one thin and one slightly thicker) and replace
8. push pistons back into pots (a little brake fluid helps to ease them in).
9 copper grease the backs of the pads and replace in callipers.
10 re-fit to bike.
11 attach brake line(s) and fill and bleed system.

Quick service (no need of seal kit)
1. remove calliper from wheel.
2. remove pads from calliper.
3. pump brake until calliper piston cames about half way out.
4.clean the rim of the pot housing(s), with a small screwdriver you can remove the outer dust seal carefully, clean under it and replace.
5.clean the line of crud from around the top of the piston(s).
6. gripping the piston and not pulling it, rotate the piston in the housing several times.
7. block the other piston (if more than one in the calliper) and push the piston in & out several times.( do the same for all pistons)
8 copper grease the backs of the pads and replace in callipers.
9 re-fit to bike (no need to bleed system).

Hope that helps.

Cheers Mark.

Quick tip:

If you are going to carry out the full service, fill the calipers with brake fluid before you fit the brake lines. It make the bleed a little easier. Also, if you fill the caliper with the pistons out a bit, attach the lines and then push the pistons back into the housing it fills the lines fron the bottom.

cheers,
thought as much - i got me some copper grease today (oh what a pretty texture it has) - and give it a going over soon.

reading my manual - it says if i pump the brake too much , the piston will come out and so will all the fluid. . .
im hoping it doesnt come to that


oh bte scoobs - i just bothered to read the small print in your profile - its a link to your old avatar

[Steve]

in the future keep a well worn set of pads and put them in and back on the bike. then pump them until the pads are well on and the pistons should never need to come out any ferther.

good tip - think i shal be doing that

Have you tried grease on the discs

no- i quite like my front end the way it is.

[TSM]

Is it a problem if i got some copper grease on the actual pots, arround the smooth edges?

My rear brake still seems to work fine without making any noise.

Originally Posted by andrewcharnley

Have you tried grease on the discs

The trouble is you can never be sure if he's serious or not.......

Dan