Breaking an SV.. questions..

I'm looking to break my SV as I think the engines seized/seizing.. we dropped the oil and there was only 1.5 ltrs in there, it was full up a week ago so it's losing oil some how and we seem to think that's why it won't move very well.

It's very very hard to push in gear with clutch in (never used to be) and only just moves in 4th/5th with the clutch in..

We checked the clutch plates and they look fine, I have to check one of the plates against a new one before breaking as it MAY just be the clutch plate, we aren't sure if they are worn enough to be causing these problems. I will have to check them against a new one before committing to breaking.

So, would I clear about £1600 by breaking my SV??

I've already sold the gel seat for £90

The bike has nice telefonica movistar bodykit
quill road legal/race can
hugger
+ everything else etc...

Would I make £1600?? if it's the clutch then I just replace the plates and it'll be fine again and I can sell it as working as there'll be nowt wrong with it.. if though however it's not the clutch then it's probably the engine, I'm not really willing to spend £400 on a new engine then sell the bike as working, I need to sell the bike anyway and the only way I can see of making my ££ back is by breaking it now..

I don't expect to make my money back from what I paid for it, but was hoping to clear about £1500/1600 ish... is it possible?

Here's the bike;



Would any one be interested in the bodywork + tank ??? if so how much??

This isn't a for sale ad so please admin etc don't move to for sale... It's just SV related questioning on whether I will make the money I want by breaking or if I should do something else etc.. also if anyone can shed any light on how much MM the clutch plates should be.. ?

Thanks

[northwind]

I think you need to find out what's actually wrong first before you think about that... A working engine and frame should get you good money, a non-running engine will get you peanuts, especially if you don't know why it's not running. Has it been running for that last week since it was full of oil? Because you'd see a leak if it had been stood and dropping. How many miles if it's ben going? Have you tried turning it by the crank? It's way too early to be diagnosing a seized engine from the symptoms you describe, if could be something as simple as an oil lock IIRC.

Looks in nice nick, though, so you could probably get a few hundred for the bodywork as a whole- no point selling custom stuff panel by panel. Maybe £75-£100 each for the wheels if you're lucky, a random amount between £50 to £150 for the radiator, £50-100 for the quill, maybe £50-£150 for the lockset... Forks etc are worth good money if they're perfectly straight. £25-£50 for each subframe. Discs £50 ish. Calipers the same if they're well serviced. Least, that seems like standard prices on Ebay, subtract something for damage or wear. You'll get a bit here and a bit there for the rest.

if you got lucky you could beat the £1600 but you're dependant on the engine really, so you still need to find out what's wrong there first. Even if the engine's dead as a doornail you can still get money for the good parts if you know what's wrong- if the bottom end's damaged PM me and we'll talk about the barrels, water pump cover, and heads In fact, if the price was right I'd take the whole plant, if you knew what was wrong with it- it'd be good to have one to practise on

It was riding fine.. it was smoking on start up but that was traced to oil in the air box from the odd wheelie.. that was cleaned out weeks ago and I stopped doing any wheelies etc, I just used it for work and running around here and there etc... it was working fine but developed starting problems, these are JUST due to a dead battery and I can sort that no problems, but it also decided it wouldn't push in gear. that's all I know to be honest, the clutch plates look fine so not sure why it won't push..

It was running a-okay until last monday morning when I can't start it.. I think it runs and rides perfectly fine to be honest! I just can't get the thing to start lol won't bump due to the fact it won't push easy in gear (with clutch in) and won't leccy start due to battery problems that I haven't sorted yet.

So all in all I haven't a clue if it's serious or not and I don't really want to spend hundreds getting a mechanic to look at it.. I am selling the bike regardless as it's time to buy a car... ! I didn't plan on keeping SV long but didn't think I'd have problems with it to be honest.

I need to check my clutch plates against a new plate, see the difference as they may just be badly worn and slipping so holding the clutch hence making hard to move?

have you tried adjusting your clutch cable? sounds to me like the plates could be dragging on each other due to crap adjustment

It was working fine for a while though then suddenly stopped.. although saying that,the clutch was slipping for about a week before I had these troubles??

Originally Posted by Yams

It was working fine for a while though then suddenly stopped.. although saying that,the clutch was slipping for about a week before I had these troubles??

i think if you were having trouble selecting gear and changing gear it would indicate that the adjustment is out one way, but i cant see it causing it to slip unless the clutch was buggered, i might be wrong though, have you ever added any oil additives? these modify the friction of the oil and can cause clutches to slip

[northwind]

Originally Posted by Yams

I just can't get the thing to start lol won't bump due to the fact it won't push easy in gear (with clutch in) and won't leccy start due to battery problems that I haven't sorted yet.

I still think you're making too much of that, SVs are bloody hard to push in gear when cold. I can just about bump mine when it's been at operating temp but no way from cold, I don't even try any more. Chuck in the battery off the supermoto, should be another 12 volter right? Won't fit but it'll sit fine up the back... Might need an extension lead. Er, actually, get a second opinion off someone else before you do this IIRC your SV battery's not just flat but burst?

You said it didn't used to be like that, but then you also said the clutch was slipping before, put 2 and 2 together?

Maybe £75-£100 each for the wheels if you're lucky, a random amount between £50 to £150 for the radiator, £50-100 for the quill, maybe £50-£150 for the lockset

You'll get 350 - 400 for the wheel with discs from the MiniTwins boys. Around 100 quid for the radiator unless you have really bad timing on eBay and around 30 - 40 quid for the lockset. The last few lock sets on eBay really haven't sold well.

Yams

To shed some light on the bike from its previous owner, it never pushed easily in gear!! as its a wet clutch and it uses only semi slipery oil!! the R6 you used to have will have bumped easier as there is less stroke in the engine and smaller holes to push eah of the cylinders up! if you look in the haynes u will see it tell su how to turn it over by the crank, look in the Valve clearnaces bit!!

if ever i needed to start it i jumped it from a car, as i could never bumb it especially on my own, and uv seen how big i am!

unless u warmed the engine up before u drained the oil you will never get any where close to the 2.6 its supposed to have in it out!! there are so many nooks and cranies for it to hde in!

Im really sorry you are having these problems, and i am genuinly shocked to hear u think it has gone this badly wrong, dont write it off yet..
i woudl be v suprised to hear if the engine had gone pop, it was faultless for the miles i had it!

hope that shes ome sort of a light onto it!

and if you do have to break it the paint work was done by dream machine at a ludicrous cost of about £800

[northwind]

Originally Posted by Mike1234

You'll get 350 - 400 for the wheel with discs from the MiniTwins boys.

I had discs seperate Wheels haven't done too well recently that I've seen, I got my spare rear with sprocket carrier, Avon Azaro tyre, good disc and stock sprocket in the more fashionable dark grey for £30 And my spare front for £70. Only lockset I've seen lately didn't have the tank lock in it, still went for £40 IIRC.