Breaks - SV650.org

24-11-05, 08:19 PM

Think I need new pads on the rear of the SV. Coupl eof quick Q's. How much pad should you be able to see (front anf back), and how much work are they to change - and are the instructions on the main site?

Thanks in advance,

Stu

northwind · 24-11-05, 08:41 PM

If your calipers are in good nick, it's pretty easy. If they're not, it's potentially a godawful b******. Can't actually remember what the runout is,stock pads have a wee mark on them to show when you've hit minimum though.

24-11-05, 08:43 PM

I thought someone was going to talk about tea breaks rather than bike brakes

Sid Squid · 24-11-05, 09:28 PM

Minimum thickness of brake pad should be 1mm, however as pads rarely wear evenly if you can see an area that has 1mm on it, hopefully you're looking at the thinnest bit, but I wouldn't rely on it.

As Andy says, if your calipers are in good order and the pins aren't stuck then changing the pads is the matter of a few easy minutes, if they're not so good and the pins are stuck and perhaps the pistons aren't moving as easy as they might then it can be a git of a job.

24-11-05, 10:29 PM

Done this job on two different SV's - in theory the pad retaining pins should just pull out. That didn't happen on either.

First one needed a pilot hole drilling in the caliper behind the pins to allow them to be tapped out.

Second one would not budge even when I attempted this - had to cut though the pins, yank out the pads, then work at the bits of pin that were left in. And on this one the pistons were also seized so I had to pump them out, clean them up and fit new seals all round, before refilling and bleedin the brakes

All in all it's a bit of a lottery depending on the life your bike's led, how much salt it's seen, how well maintained etc.

25-11-05, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by derbybiker

I thought someone was going to talk about tea breaks rather than bike brakes

Opps, my bad

Thanks for the info guys. Seeing as I have a week off from work I think I'd better get them started Sunday in case I need the assistance of the bike shop...

Are there any instructions on the site at all?

TIA

Stu

24-11-05, 08:19 PM	#1
MavUK Guest Posts: n/a	Breaks Think I need new pads on the rear of the SV. Coupl eof quick Q's. How much pad should you be able to see (front anf back), and how much work are they to change - and are the instructions on the main site? Thanks in advance, Stu

24-11-05, 08:41 PM	#2
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,083	If your calipers are in good nick, it's pretty easy. If they're not, it's potentially a godawful b******. Can't actually remember what the runout is,stock pads have a wee mark on them to show when you've hit minimum though. __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

24-11-05, 09:28 PM	#4
Sid Squid No, I don't lend tools. Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Skunk Works, Nth London Posts: 8,680	Minimum thickness of brake pad should be 1mm, however as pads rarely wear evenly if you can see an area that has 1mm on it, hopefully you're looking at the thinnest bit, but I wouldn't rely on it. As Andy says, if your calipers are in good order and the pins aren't stuck then changing the pads is the matter of a few easy minutes, if they're not so good and the pins are stuck and perhaps the pistons aren't moving as easy as they might then it can be a git of a job. __________________ If an SV650 has a flat tyre in the forest and no-one is there to blow it up, how long will it be 'til someone posts that the reg/rec is duff and the world will end unless a CBR unit is fitted? A little bit of knowledge = a dangerous thing. "a deathless anthem of nuclear-strength romantic angst"

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24-11-05, 08:43 PM	#3
derbybiker Guest Posts: n/a	I thought someone was going to talk about tea breaks rather than bike brakes

24-11-05, 10:29 PM	#5
Well Oiled Guest Posts: n/a	Done this job on two different SV's - in theory the pad retaining pins should just pull out. That didn't happen on either. First one needed a pilot hole drilling in the caliper behind the pins to allow them to be tapped out. Second one would not budge even when I attempted this - had to cut though the pins, yank out the pads, then work at the bits of pin that were left in. And on this one the pistons were also seized so I had to pump them out, clean them up and fit new seals all round, before refilling and bleedin the brakes All in all it's a bit of a lottery depending on the life your bike's led, how much salt it's seen, how well maintained etc.