bolts with sheared off heads... - SV650.org

20-03-06, 01:16 PM

hello everybody, is there any way of removing bolts with a sheared off head...ie just the shaft of the bolt is in the threaded hole so there is nothing to grab and turn...

Thanks

andy

20-03-06, 01:23 PM

for allenheads i find a torx bit that fits in the hex tightly, tap it in a far a poss and use the attachments to undo it with a wrench

If its gradable, a pair of mole grips are good

screws i cut, drill and "easy out" it out

20-03-06, 02:00 PM

its in the end of a clipon, the bar end isnt present and the bolt has snapped off about 1 mm below the lip of the end of the clipon.

I cant grab it,

there is no hex key bit left,

cut drill and "easy out" i dont know what it is could you explain please.

Thanks again

andy

Viney · 20-03-06, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silent

its in the end of a clipon, the bar end isnt present and the bolt has snapped off about 1 mm below the lip of the end of the clipon.

I cant grab it,

there is no hex key bit left,

cut drill and "easy out" i dont know what it is could you explain please.

Thanks again

andy

That happened to me. I brought a second hand clip on

20-03-06, 02:26 PM

You can drill it out, but centre punch the middle of the bolt first. Choose a drill slightly smaller than the bolt. This method is rubbish however as you will probably end up drill the thread within the hole.
You need an easy out thingy. Drill a smaller hole in the bolt, choose an easy out that will screw into the hole cutting a thread as it goes. As it is tapered, it will gradually tighten up as it goes into the hole. Now you might think this will only tighten the bolt further, but its got a left hand thread see, so you screw the easy out thingy in by turning clockwise. Go to a motor spares place and I'm sure they'll sell you a set and show you how to use them?

northwind · 20-03-06, 02:31 PM

That's going to be a rotter... I'd replace the clipon too, much easier. Always nice when bolts shear off on replacable parts, instead of cylinder heads.

But, you could fix it by drilling it out completely, and either fitting a helicoil or tapping a bigger hole, drilling out the bar end and fitting a bigger bolt. You might get lucky if you drilled a smaller hole the size of the unthreaded width (ie, as wide as the bolt would be with the threads all removed). But that would be a best to do right, and you're drilling steel out of ally (so the surroundign material that you need to leave intact, is softer than the material

svrash was referring to the ever-popular bolt-extractor. Or bolt-****er as it's sometimes known. It's a reverse-threaded screw, you drill into the bolt, thread this in, it taps its own hole and in theory, draws the bolt out. In practice, they often snap off, and because they're incredibly hard they're a nightmare to drill out.

20-03-06, 02:51 PM

hmmm

well its on a tl1000s clipon that i bought for the front end upgrade from a breaker...they didnt mention the above flaw in the clipons and i intend to raise hell...just wonder whether i should send them back or try extracting myself really now...

Andy

northwind · 20-03-06, 03:15 PM

Send it right back, I would.

20-03-06, 05:17 PM

suzuki quality bolts show there ugly head again!

20-03-06, 06:43 PM

If it was me i'd knock the remains of the broken bar end further into the bar and fit new bar end weights at the end leaving the broken part trapped inside the clip on for ever.

Its not like having half an extra bit of bar end weight in there is going to make a huge difference to your bike and it wont rattle around in there as its a snug fit.

It should knock in easy as the bolt keeping in tight in there has sheared so there is no clamping force on the weight anymore.

This way you wont have to mess about with grips levers switchgear etc and i wouldnt buy a new clip on just for that thats for sure.

20-03-06, 01:16 PM	#1
silent Guest Posts: n/a	bolts with sheared off heads... hello everybody, is there any way of removing bolts with a sheared off head...ie just the shaft of the bolt is in the threaded hole so there is nothing to grab and turn... Thanks andy

20-03-06, 02:31 PM	#6
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,083	That's going to be a rotter... I'd replace the clipon too, much easier. Always nice when bolts shear off on replacable parts, instead of cylinder heads. But, you could fix it by drilling it out completely, and either fitting a helicoil or tapping a bigger hole, drilling out the bar end and fitting a bigger bolt. You might get lucky if you drilled a smaller hole the size of the unthreaded width (ie, as wide as the bolt would be with the threads all removed). But that would be a best to do right, and you're drilling steel out of ally (so the surroundign material that you need to leave intact, is softer than the material svrash was referring to the ever-popular bolt-extractor. Or bolt-****er as it's sometimes known. It's a reverse-threaded screw, you drill into the bolt, thread this in, it taps its own hole and in theory, draws the bolt out. In practice, they often snap off, and because they're incredibly hard they're a nightmare to drill out. __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

20-03-06, 03:15 PM	#8
northwind Moderator Mega Poster Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: In the garage where I belong Posts: 17,083	Send it right back, I would. __________________ "We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed"

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20-03-06, 01:23 PM	#2
svrash Guest Posts: n/a	for allenheads i find a torx bit that fits in the hex tightly, tap it in a far a poss and use the attachments to undo it with a wrench If its gradable, a pair of mole grips are good screws i cut, drill and "easy out" it out

20-03-06, 02:00 PM	#3
silent Guest Posts: n/a	its in the end of a clipon, the bar end isnt present and the bolt has snapped off about 1 mm below the lip of the end of the clipon. I cant grab it, there is no hex key bit left, cut drill and "easy out" i dont know what it is could you explain please. Thanks again andy

20-03-06, 02:26 PM	#5
skidmarx Guest Posts: n/a	You can drill it out, but centre punch the middle of the bolt first. Choose a drill slightly smaller than the bolt. This method is rubbish however as you will probably end up drill the thread within the hole. You need an easy out thingy. Drill a smaller hole in the bolt, choose an easy out that will screw into the hole cutting a thread as it goes. As it is tapered, it will gradually tighten up as it goes into the hole. Now you might think this will only tighten the bolt further, but its got a left hand thread see, so you screw the easy out thingy in by turning clockwise. Go to a motor spares place and I'm sure they'll sell you a set and show you how to use them?

20-03-06, 02:51 PM	#7
silent Guest Posts: n/a	hmmm well its on a tl1000s clipon that i bought for the front end upgrade from a breaker...they didnt mention the above flaw in the clipons and i intend to raise hell...just wonder whether i should send them back or try extracting myself really now... Andy

20-03-06, 05:17 PM	#9
kwak zzr Guest Posts: n/a	suzuki quality bolts show there ugly head again!

20-03-06, 06:43 PM	#10
ianofbhills Guest Posts: n/a	If it was me i'd knock the remains of the broken bar end further into the bar and fit new bar end weights at the end leaving the broken part trapped inside the clip on for ever. Its not like having half an extra bit of bar end weight in there is going to make a huge difference to your bike and it wont rattle around in there as its a snug fit. It should knock in easy as the bolt keeping in tight in there has sheared so there is no clamping force on the weight anymore. This way you wont have to mess about with grips levers switchgear etc and i wouldnt buy a new clip on just for that thats for sure.