I need your help with this problem! - SV650.org

24-09-06, 07:06 PM

Hello, new member here. I've been lurking for a while and finally decided to take the plunge...because I need something

Anyway, I posted this exact same post over on svrider looking for input and was hoping to get more of a response here.

Here goes:

Please exuse the length of this post....

Alright, here is my attempt at making this as short as possible. I bought a 2000 sv650 last weekend. Bike ran great and started fine (everytime) up until I got it home. After adjusting the clutch lever angle, it turned out one of the clutch position switch wires got pinched in the bar clamp. This created a (small) short and would cause the 10A ignition fuse to blow everytime I pressed the start button. It took a while to find this out, but the bike would start and run fine if I just gave power to the starter.

Fast forward to today, one week after the initial problems. I naively thought that since i shorted the switch, I'd just replace the fuse, fix the wire and off I would ride. But oh, not quite. Now when I press the start button, nothing happens, not even blowing fuses (which is a good thing). Since this happened, I've checked and verified that the following parts are functioning correctly: ignition switch, engine run/kill switch, clutch lever switch, push start switch, side stand switch, neutral switch, starter relay, starter, and battery. Pretty much, I'm left with the side stand/turn signal relay, the diode inline with the starter relay, and whatever you can suggest. Let me also point out that the side stand switch activates the relay portion of the 'relay', I just can get good readings from the diode section. Does anyone have any insight into a good way to check this? FWIW, I'm using the factory Suzuki manual I downloaded from sv.org.

Also, for those familiar with the wiring schematic and/or starting problems: what is the function of the diode running between the leads on the starter relay (on the diagram anyway, not on the bike...it's really up in the tail section)? Can you please explain its purpose? Also, do you know where to get it? I haven't tried a dealer yet, but I checked a couple online sources and came up empty handed...

Lastly, along the lines of the ^^^ paragraph, is it common for the 2000 sv's not to have the 'starter control relay'? Per the wiring diagram in the manual, there should be this relay attached to a three-lead harness. Well, I found the harness that is supposed to plug into the relay, but the relay isn't there...only another harness with two of the leads jumped. Probably not a big concern, I'm just curious.

Again, sorry for the long post, but I'd appreciate any and all help you could give!!!

24-09-06, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1-3-2-4

Let me also point out that the side stand switch activates the relay portion of the 'relay', I just can get good readings from the diode section. Does anyone have any insight into a good way to check this? FWIW, I'm using the factory Suzuki manual I downloaded from sv.org.

If the side stand or the neutral light activates the relay , than the diodes are working correctly . And the problems isnt there !

A diode conducts electricity in only one direction , to test it put the multimeter in the "beep" mode or on Ohms , you should get a reading with the black end of the multimeter on diode side with the stripe , and the red end on the other side of the diode !

If you reverse the multimeter end's (red on the side with the stripe) , and still get a reading then the diode is broken ! witch is very rare !!!

But... if the side stand turns the relay on then you don't need to worry about the diodes ! the problem is somewhere else !

edit:

Quote:

lastly, along the lines of the ^^^ paragraph, is it common for the 2000 sv's not to have the 'starter control relay'? Per the wiring diagram in the manual, there should be this relay attached to a three-lead harness. Well, I found the harness that is supposed to plug into the relay, but the relay isn't there...only another harness with two of the leads jumped. Probably not a big concern, I'm just curious.

You need the relay , at the risk of melting the wiring !
If there is no starter relay , then the start engine current is passing by all the switches on the SV, clutch , side stand , 30A fuse , etc... and those wires/switches aren't prepared for the kind of current a start engine uses , if there is no start relay you problem can be a burnt wire or switch

25-09-06, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dotted

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1-3-2-4

Let me also point out that the side stand switch activates the relay portion of the 'relay', I just can get good readings from the diode section. Does anyone have any insight into a good way to check this? FWIW, I'm using the factory Suzuki manual I downloaded from sv.org.

If the side stand or the neutral light activates the relay , than the diodes are working correctly . And the problems isnt there !

A diode conducts electricity in only one direction , to test it put the multimeter in the "beep" mode or on Ohms , you should get a reading with the black end of the multimeter on diode side with the stripe , and the red end on the other side of the diode !

If you reverse the multimeter end's (red on the side with the stripe) , and still get a reading then the diode is broken ! witch is very rare !!!

But... if the side stand turns the relay on then you don't need to worry about the diodes ! the problem is somewhere else !

edit:

Quote:

lastly, along the lines of the ^^^ paragraph, is it common for the 2000 sv's not to have the 'starter control relay'? Per the wiring diagram in the manual, there should be this relay attached to a three-lead harness. Well, I found the harness that is supposed to plug into the relay, but the relay isn't there...only another harness with two of the leads jumped. Probably not a big concern, I'm just curious.

You need the relay , at the risk of melting the wiring !
If there is no starter relay , then the start engine current is passing by all the switches on the SV, clutch , side stand , 30A fuse , etc... and those wires/switches aren't prepared for the kind of current a start engine uses , if there is no start relay you problem can be a burnt wire or switch

After reading your post and thinking about it some more, I will agree that the diodes seem to be in good working condition. And since the sidestand switch will actuate the relay and the neutral switch has checked out good and illuminates the light, I think I'm fine.

Regarding the relay, let me clarify. I have a starter relay. I don't have the 'starter control relay' that the diagram lists. Per the factory manual, there should be a starter relay AND a starter control relay. I only have the starter relay...

25-09-06, 11:01 AM

Perhaps you're chasing your tail a little mate. Since the problems arose after you fiddled with the clutch switch and wiring. I'd suggest getting a multi meter and checking your wiring to and from the clutch switch. Perhaps there was something else amiss in there. Are the wires into the switch hooked up correctly? Have you tried bypassing the whole clutch switch/wiring section and just bridge the connections?

25-09-06, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeterM

Perhaps you're chasing your tail a little mate. Since the problems arose after you fiddled with the clutch switch and wiring. I'd suggest getting a multi meter and checking your wiring to and from the clutch switch. Perhaps there was something else amiss in there. Are the wires into the switch hooked up correctly? Have you tried bypassing the whole clutch switch/wiring section and just bridge the connections?

I did in fact bypass the clutch switch. After delving in a bit deeper, I noticed that the previous owner had jumped the two connections, thus performing the same function of always keeping the clutch switch closed.

I can trace the power from the ignition to the engine cutoff to the push button to the clutch switch to the harness right to the starter relay. From there, I don't see any reason why the relay would not be actuated. And yes, I have tested the starter relay...more than once.

To make matters worse, the problem now appears to be intermittent. On two occasions the bike would start on its own accord (that is, without me just giving power to the starter). The worst though was how it started yesterday (Sunday). Saturday I finished troubleshooting the problem in the afternoon and let it be. When I left, it would not start. Sunday, my father got it to start everytime he tried....and the bike was not touched since I left it!

I ordered a new battery and that should be here this week. The battery that came on the bike looks to be original from 2000, so I feel its a good investment at this point and it will be nice to know for certain that the battery is good. Of course, I'm not expecting this fix to be the solution.

25-09-06, 01:32 PM

You have the problem very narrowed down

it should be easy to fix it now !

It looks like its a bad contact problem , and its somewhere between the battery , starter relay , and start engine !

I dont know if its possible to check this , but this what i would do.

-Check fot good contacts on the battery terminals , relay , and start engine
-Check for a click sound coming from the starter relay, when you press the starter button
-If there is a click sound , then i would put the multimeter on continuous volt's mode , and try to stick the red probe on the relay contacts, and black probe on the frame , whit the start button pressed you should have 3 "12V" reading's on the relay contacts, and with the start button off one "12V" reading from wire that comes from the battery!
-If you have the 3 "12V"readings then the problems is between the starter relay and the start engine !

ps: im no mechanical expert , i only know a bit about electrical stuff , but from my work experience what you have is just a bad contact somewhere in you bike !

25-09-06, 01:45 PM

It does seem like a bad contact, especially since sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I already cleaned up the connections on the starter and battery, so I am fearing that there may be a connection problem in the harness or something.

As it stands right now, there is no click from the starter relay when I press the 'start' button....which indicates that there is either a bad ground or a break in the ignition/engine run/engine start/clutch lever string of wires....I may just make a new ground that goes directly to the lead into the relay and trouble shoot the wiring from there...

24-09-06, 07:06 PM	#1
1-3-2-4 Guest Posts: n/a	I need your help with this problem! Hello, new member here. I've been lurking for a while and finally decided to take the plunge...because I need something Anyway, I posted this exact same post over on svrider looking for input and was hoping to get more of a response here. Here goes: Please exuse the length of this post.... Alright, here is my attempt at making this as short as possible. I bought a 2000 sv650 last weekend. Bike ran great and started fine (everytime) up until I got it home. After adjusting the clutch lever angle, it turned out one of the clutch position switch wires got pinched in the bar clamp. This created a (small) short and would cause the 10A ignition fuse to blow everytime I pressed the start button. It took a while to find this out, but the bike would start and run fine if I just gave power to the starter. Fast forward to today, one week after the initial problems. I naively thought that since i shorted the switch, I'd just replace the fuse, fix the wire and off I would ride. But oh, not quite. Now when I press the start button, nothing happens, not even blowing fuses (which is a good thing). Since this happened, I've checked and verified that the following parts are functioning correctly: ignition switch, engine run/kill switch, clutch lever switch, push start switch, side stand switch, neutral switch, starter relay, starter, and battery. Pretty much, I'm left with the side stand/turn signal relay, the diode inline with the starter relay, and whatever you can suggest. Let me also point out that the side stand switch activates the relay portion of the 'relay', I just can get good readings from the diode section. Does anyone have any insight into a good way to check this? FWIW, I'm using the factory Suzuki manual I downloaded from sv.org. Also, for those familiar with the wiring schematic and/or starting problems: what is the function of the diode running between the leads on the starter relay (on the diagram anyway, not on the bike...it's really up in the tail section)? Can you please explain its purpose? Also, do you know where to get it? I haven't tried a dealer yet, but I checked a couple online sources and came up empty handed... Lastly, along the lines of the ^^^ paragraph, is it common for the 2000 sv's not to have the 'starter control relay'? Per the wiring diagram in the manual, there should be this relay attached to a three-lead harness. Well, I found the harness that is supposed to plug into the relay, but the relay isn't there...only another harness with two of the leads jumped. Probably not a big concern, I'm just curious. Again, sorry for the long post, but I'd appreciate any and all help you could give!!!

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25-09-06, 11:01 AM	#4
PeterM Guest Posts: n/a	Perhaps you're chasing your tail a little mate. Since the problems arose after you fiddled with the clutch switch and wiring. I'd suggest getting a multi meter and checking your wiring to and from the clutch switch. Perhaps there was something else amiss in there. Are the wires into the switch hooked up correctly? Have you tried bypassing the whole clutch switch/wiring section and just bridge the connections?

25-09-06, 01:32 PM	#6
dotted Guest Posts: n/a	You have the problem very narrowed down it should be easy to fix it now ! It looks like its a bad contact problem , and its somewhere between the battery , starter relay , and start engine ! I dont know if its possible to check this , but this what i would do. -Check fot good contacts on the battery terminals , relay , and start engine -Check for a click sound coming from the starter relay, when you press the starter button -If there is a click sound , then i would put the multimeter on continuous volt's mode , and try to stick the red probe on the relay contacts, and black probe on the frame , whit the start button pressed you should have 3 "12V" reading's on the relay contacts, and with the start button off one "12V" reading from wire that comes from the battery! -If you have the 3 "12V"readings then the problems is between the starter relay and the start engine ! ps: im no mechanical expert , i only know a bit about electrical stuff , but from my work experience what you have is just a bad contact somewhere in you bike !

25-09-06, 01:45 PM	#7
1-3-2-4 Guest Posts: n/a	It does seem like a bad contact, especially since sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I already cleaned up the connections on the starter and battery, so I am fearing that there may be a connection problem in the harness or something. As it stands right now, there is no click from the starter relay when I press the 'start' button....which indicates that there is either a bad ground or a break in the ignition/engine run/engine start/clutch lever string of wires....I may just make a new ground that goes directly to the lead into the relay and trouble shoot the wiring from there...