Cyclone Advanced Alarm

[KnightRider]

I am now the proud owner of the Cyclone advanced alarm that a number of you seem to have and I was wondering if you have any advice on fitting it to my new K7.

It doesnt look like it is going to be too much of a chore to fit (I was pretty handy with electronics as a kid) but advice on places to locate the brain box and microwave box would be appreciatted. I am going to use bullet crimp connectors to fit the alarm so that I can remove it easily but I was also wondering how much bodywork am I going to have to remove from the SV to do this work (I have lowers fitted if that helps).

Finally - can anyone recommend a relay switch for the immobiliser? Was thinking about either this one (any of them on this page would probably work) or this one (the 30A SPDT 12Vdc version)?

Thanks for your help,

Jon

I have the more basic version (that doesnt include microwave cooking ), and my alarm unit is under the main seat. Right at the very front of the pillion seat.

From memory, it was only a matter of lifting the tank (which means rider seat off too), and pillion seat off to fit it.

I'll be helping to fit one of the advanced versions the week after next, unless SoulKiss fits it before the AR.

Either relay you've picked out will do fine. One tip though, the thick orange wire coming from the fuse box is the main ignition live feed (12v+). Don't cut this, because even with just a relay in the line, you loose the LCD panel on your dash.

Look where this wire comes out the fuse box, the holes next to it are fused on the same fuse (and so are live when the ignition is on), solder a wire in here & use that for ingition sensing so you don't loose anything on the dash panel.

Also, think carefully about the remote start option. Do you really want it?

I brought the same version as you Baph but I only wired it in to act as a basic alarm. I'm a bit worried about taking on the full immobiliser bit as I've caught the remote once or twice and set the alarm off while I'm riding the bike. Now this is a great source of amusement trying to get to the remote whilst riding and slowing down as quickly as possible in a controlled manner but would the immobiliser cut in if that option was active?
The idea of that happening frightens the c**p out of me to be honest but if its a case of me being worried about nothing I'll give it a go.
What do you think ?

As well as that if I remember correct the instructions say I need to disable the clutch switch is that right ?

Originally Posted by AlanB

Now this is a great source of amusement trying to get to the remote whilst riding and slowing down as quickly as possible in a controlled manner but would the immobiliser cut in if that option was active?

Firstly, contact the manufacturers for information on the default state of the immobiliser. That's the only way to know for sure.

However, my opinion, is that the brown wire (IIRC) is wired up to do ignition detect. I think this is a "state of change" sense. So if the ignition is on when the alarm is armed, the alarm should take that state as the default, if the ignition is turned off, then the alarm sounds because of iginition state. Vice versa applies to arming the alarm if the ignition is off. That's certainly how I'd design it (so that the immobiliser didn't leave you stranded on the fast lane of the motorway - just as a horrific example of potential).

Again, check with the manufacturer to confirm/despute my opinion.

I'll drop them a line, thanks.Have you ever had any probs with your ?

[SoulKiss]

Originally Posted by jonwestuk

I am now the proud owner of the Cyclone advanced alarm that a number of you seem to have and I was wondering if you have any advice on fitting it to my new K7.

It doesnt look like it is going to be too much of a chore to fit (I was pretty handy with electronics as a kid) but advice on places to locate the brain box and microwave box would be appreciatted. I am going to use bullet crimp connectors to fit the alarm so that I can remove it easily but I was also wondering how much bodywork am I going to have to remove from the SV to do this work (I have lowers fitted if that helps).

Finally - can anyone recommend a relay switch for the immobiliser? Was thinking about either this one (any of them on this page would probably work) or this one (the 30A SPDT 12Vdc version)?

Thanks for your help,

Jon

Bring it and yourself to AR07 and we both fit them at the same time

[KnightRider]

I would love to come to the AR07 but as I have mentioned before I think it is a little bit far to go (250 miles) on a new bike and during my first week of riding after my test. Not sure what you guys think about that but I dont want to end up half way to the AR07 only to find that I have to stop half way cause I hurt like hell. Plus I have also heard that long motorway trips during the run in period probably arent a good idea.

Jon

hmmm - but what if I were to allow two days to get get to the AR07 and two days back?

Originally Posted by jonwestuk

Plus I have also heard that long motorway trips during the run in period probably arent a good idea.

My bike was run in pretty much constantly on motorways. Vary the throttle, drop to 5th instead of constantly being in 6th etc etc.

There's a large group going from London, so you could get in with them, and I'm sure no-one will leave you behind.

[SoulKiss]

Originally Posted by Baph

My bike was run in pretty much constantly on motorways. Vary the throttle, drop to 5th instead of constantly being in 6th etc etc.

There's a large group going from London, so you could get in with them, and I'm sure no-one will leave you behind.

There is only one problem with motoway riding - boredom

When I was shopping for my SV, Cupar Suzuki in Scotland were the cheapest by a good couple of hundred quid.

I considered this and chatted with them - they were even going to pick me up from the airport and take me to their shop !!!

The didnt seem to think that turning a brand new bike loose on a Scotland to London trip would be a bad thing.

Also, something to consider is that if you come up to the Ace from London Bridge, by the time you then get past the road-works on the M1 (Northampton-ish) you will have done 80 miles plus what you have already done and some people consider this more than enough to actually run in the engine. I did it by the book, if I had it to do again I dont know if I would be so strict. I also had it on the M25 the day after I passed the test as part of its shake-down and I just had to make sure that all 3 digits on the speedo worked :P

Of course you could go out this weekend and chuck another couple of hundred miles on it.

Issue might be the 1st service tho - 750miles is the estimate for the weekend and its due at 600 (or is it 500). Good luck finding anyone that can fit you in n less than 2 weeks for a service BTW.

Turn up @ Soho tomorrow night and have a chat if you fancy the AR but are not sure of your abilities/capabilities.

David

Originally Posted by SoulKiss

Issue might be the 1st service tho - 750miles is the estimate for the weekend and its due at 600 (or is it 500). Good luck finding anyone that can fit you in n less than 2 weeks for a service BTW.

Bring service parts to the AR. You won't get a dealership stamp, granted, but using genuine Suzuki bits bought from the dealership shouldn't be much of an issue (many dealerships will still stamp the book if you buy all the bits from them).

We'll have all the tools on hand, and the first service is seriously pish. Drop the oil & replace that & the filter. Tighten cables & you're pretty much done.

We'll probably do more to your bike than you'd get on the first service anyway