My Curvy is possessed!

[embee]

As above.

Most common problems with electrical stuff is with connectors. Unplug, clean (WD40 works fine usually) and refit. Applies to fuses too.

Also check the known chafing points for the wiring as said.
1 - Behind the rider seat bolts both sides (tape up the harness and/or fit a washer under the bolt head, they are just a touch too long.
2 - under the pillion seat inside the cubby box, towards the back on the left hand side (as you sit on it) th eharness bends round the edge of a frame bracket and can chafe.
3 - around the headstock where the harnesses flex as you turn the bars, just loook generally.

Otherwise could be simply ignition coil connections.

If it's starting OK the battery must be charging reasonably, though it could be overcharging. Simple voltage check with the engine running will tell you (search reg/rec etc)

[yorkie_chris]

Dash pulsating is not coil connections.

That tends to give lumpy running and if its the front cylinder then the tacho stops working/ goes a bit nuts if its intermittent.

What do you mean by the tach going nuts? my whole dash was going bonkers, speedo and rev needles flying from stop to stop and lcd not working at all which I could understand being just a dash connection problem, but it seemed to affect the bike running as well, if the battery connection was duff somewhere, would the power from the generator keep the bike running?

[dirtydog]

I'm with yorkie on this, battery terminals is where i'd start. Souinds lime the exact problems i had when i forgot to tighten up the terminals after fitting a new battery

[yorkie_chris]

Originally Posted by Mags

What do you mean by the tach going nuts? my whole dash was going bonkers, speedo and rev needles flying from stop to stop and lcd not working at all which I could understand being just a dash connection problem, but it seemed to affect the bike running as well, if the battery connection was duff somewhere, would the power from the generator keep the bike running?

Generator can run the bike but only at higher revs, even then not well because its not smooth power, IMO the battery acts as a big damper on the system to give nice DC rather than pulses of DC from each phase on the alternator.

The tach takes its feed from the coil -ve and reads the frequency, at least on the curvy anyway, maybe pointy gets digital from the ecu, but still the whole dash going nuts doesn't indicate a coil connection is wrong.

I've had a tinker and I think I've found the prob. On top of the large fuse housing, the one with 2x30A fuses and the main +ve power in/out there is a small 4 pin male plug with 3 pins in use, when I wiggled this the power cut in/out, pulled the plug and the connecter with the red cable (looks like ign switch on/off) isn't staying in the plastic housing, I've pulled it out and tried putting it back in but its not staying put.
I've tried to push it in as best I can and I'll see if it gets me the 50 miles to home, I'll have to stick to the inside lane in case I lose power on the M'way.
Does anyone know if I can replace only the plastic housing? it looks like the housing isn't locking the pin in so maybe a new one will resolve this, otherwise I'll have to try glueing the pin in or getting a chopped loom and replacing this piece.

Ho-hum, fingers crossed for the journey home.

Mags

[yorkie_chris]

Sorry mate its about the only spare bit of loom I haven't got.

If you could find a bit of wire then put a bit direct to the +ve and skip the starter relay out of the equation as a temporary bodge up.

[chris8886]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

That tends to give lumpy running and if its the front cylinder then the tacho stops working/ goes a bit nuts if its intermittent.

had this exact problem recently when the front cylinder wasn't sparking properly!! quite disconcerting. all sorted now though

[northwind]

Hmm, me neither I think. I was going to point the finger at the starter relay, which it turns out it just about is, shame I'm too late Your symptoms are identical to mine when the relay itself broke. Now I think of it I originally thought that was a wiring break on or near that socket, but after spending ages taking it to bits it turned out I was wrong.

I think the easiest fix might just be to chop off that section and attach one from another loom, if I'm understanding you right and the fault is in the wiring side not the relay side. But luckily, that relay is a very standard Suzuki part (31800-21E20) so there's millions of loons you could cannibalise, if you go here:

http://www.ronayers.com/search/whereused.cfm

and put that part number in you'll see 71 bikes whose main looms would make a perfect donor. Not the GSXRs, seemingly.

There's other alternatives, you might be able to find the parts to rebuild the plug, or you could hard solder that connection to the relay I suppose, but I'd do the loom thing.

[northwind]

Ah, no wait, I do have a loom spare... I got an extra one as part of a job lot. Want it? I can just chop off the bit you need if you like, or I could send the whole thing, it'd cost more though.