Curvy RED Project

[mikerj]

Originally Posted by maviczap

But they're not oil fed tensioners which was the original post. They are an item in the service schedule to do what you've described.

Do you have a reference for this? I just had a look in my curvy and my pointy service manual and I see no mention of the cam chain tensioner in the periodic maintenance table? Obviously they have to be removed to re-shim the valves which involves slackening them off.

They are fully automatic tensioners, even if they aren't hydraulically controlled and don't work as well as they should.

[maviczap]

It might be in my Haynes, so I might be talking out of my ****

Thanks for the responses, gotta get down to servicing it this weekend tbh since i got back from the MOT i haven't been back into the garage at all. I've also gotta remove the rear plastics and trim cause it appears the seat support frame has taken a knock and it isn't quite square.

Had the bike laser checked and wheel alignment and head stock is all spot on so main frame is fine. Gas torch and a minor tweek is on the cards.

Binning the plastics me thinks and going for naked bike. Is the bandit headlight the same as the naked SV also the top yoke/triple tree????

Ordered a lovely set of duralium handle bars for it which should be here soon.

Joe

piccies another nice rebuild thread

[yorkie_chris]

Don't worry about intermittent rattle, it is sleeve inside tensioner that wobbles about a bit. Nothing that affects function of tensioner.

Alryt all,

definatley will have photos tonight gonna take it apart and service it tonight then down to the local for a half of coke so will take some nice pics down there.

Cheers,

Joe

Sorry for the long delay guys, internet down and house to sort out, well good news is my curvy is fully fixed and purrs like a kitten, front tensioner spring was all bunched up so they have been replaced. Alot of people I read said how much of a ball ache it is to do.

Tbh only took me half an hour,

Now for the sad news, after working on it and getting it all sorted i then accompanied a pal to his to finish putting his LS650 Savage back together, job done both bikes running sound so we went to the local meet at the Waterman and shortly after my pal who was running my curvy as I was checking his bike was ok. He pulled into a carpark on the way back to swap bikes as we go seperate ways. As i caught up and pulled in behind him, i saw a cloud of dust and my curvy shortly followed by my best pal mid air in the car park.

As a result the bike is pretty beaten up, plastics coming off and by s to n conversion is happening a lil sooner than anticipated.

Never mind ay???

Joe

How did he end up mid air? Shame about the bike tho, hope your mate is OK.

BTW where is the front tensiner is it easy to get to? My front cylider rattles like no body's business been told not to worry but would like to fix if not quiet it down a bit. Sorry for the derail :/

Hi to do the front cylinder, remove the triangular side panels then remove the riders seat pad. undo the four bolts holding the tank and lift. disconnect the breather tube right at the base of the tank.

Remove the main fuel supply pipe from the vac fuel tap, also remove the vac pipe from the same tap.

disconnect the fuel sender connector that leads under the seat. lift the tank clear, remove the air box remember to disconnect the two engine breather pipes from the left hand side, you then need a 5mm ball ended long 3/8s drive hex key on and extension with a ratchet.

There is a cross bar on the frame if you look down at the back of the front cylinder left hand side and you'll see the tensioner. Simply undo the two fixings and remove the tensioner.

2/ He just piled it up on a gravel carpark, he's fine still biking on and he's paying for my conversion so all is good

Roll on stafford tomorrow!!!!

just been out in the garden and got the thing fired up, somehow he managed to kill the starter solenoid in the process but all done now.

Also the missus just put a deposit down on a 125 intruder.

Joe