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#11 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2004
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For the jet sizes though, personally I'm of the opinion that the DJ suggested jetting is absolutely hopeless. their instructions are about 6 years old now and I'm pretty sure they were put together for the very first K&N- the one that was more restrictive than stock- and who knows what exhaust system. If you're buying a kit, buy Ivan's, JHS's or Factory Pro, and if you're not, just ignore the DJ nonsense. IMO!
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#12 |
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I had a race can fitted to mine without any other mod and it ran fine. I then added a K & N filter and the bike started to run seriously lean. I changed the main jets and all was well.
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#13 |
The Sick Man
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Join Date: Nov 2004
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Would a good starting point for:
LeoVince slipon & K&N DJ160 mains or should it be a bit larger like DJ170's? It it a good idea to get slighly smaller ones for the rear carb than the front, if so by how much??
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#14 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
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I know Northy does not trust the dynojet kit instructions but IMO they are okay. Like he said their are two kits - Stage 1 and stage 1&3.The first is not available anymore AFAIK except someone has some old kit they are still selling. The second kit they brought out is the stage 1&3 and that is what you should be gettinmg if you decide to go for a Dynojet kit. Cheers Ben |
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#15 | |
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![]() If a Mikuni 160 is roughly the same as a DJ170, then a DJ138 is going to be considerably smaller than a stock Mikuni jet on the SV. I've also heard from another forum where I posted a similar message, that Mikuni measure the jets both with aperture size and flow rate, depending on which jet it is (hex headed or round headed.) I think I'll give up for a bit until I've done some more research. Thanks for all the help anyway ![]() |
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#16 |
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Yes, I'm running the racing filter, fully opened up at the top.
The difference between the Mikuni and Dynojet jet measurements are that Mikuni measure flow rate (cfm) and DJ use a linear measurement. You can still use your stock needles, it's just that they don't have the same degree of adjustment. As has been said, just doing the pipe you don't need to mess with jetting but you might as well do the filter as well to have some fun. The key with getting the individual parts, especially needles, is finding a place that imports all components and usually don't sell jet kits as a whole. Jets are a piece of **** to get and qite cheap too. The variation between jet sizes, front and rear, should only be one size. Anything more makes the bike lumpy at low revs and less responsive as one cylinder is rich, the other lean. |
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#17 |
The Sick Man
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Well i have ordered DJ140 to start off on, it will be better than what is in the carbs at the moment for when i put the filter on. Ile get it dyno'ed and see what it does.
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OTR: KTM 690 Duke R 2015 Full Akro SIDELINE: Kwak ZX636 A1P 2002, Red, R&G's, Yoshi, Double Bubble Screen GONE: Kwak ZX-7R P1, Full Akro, Undertray, Screen GONE: SV650S K2 Very Bruised & Without Fairing, Motovation Frame Sliders, R&G Ally Sprocket Toe Protector, HEL 2 Line Setup, GSXR K1 600 RWU Forks, Barnett Clutch & Springs, Penske 8981 Shock, Gilles Ti Rearsets, Steel Barends, Scottoiler, AFAM Chain & Sprockets, Twin FIAMM Horns, Skidmarx Bellypan, Full Micron Zeta Steel System, Cut down undertay. Forum Problems & Information / Site Suggestions |
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