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#21 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
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![]() Quote:
The reason it doesn't quite work(though it is very close) is because of slight difference in in how far the steering can be turned to the side. This can be acheived simply by moving the ugs on the frame. So the lock stops on the bottom yoke could be in exactly the same place but you still a difference in turning circle. Anyone ever compared the bottom yoke of the faired and unfaired (talking Curvy)?.....know what the main difference is ![]() Ben |
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#22 |
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cheers for the advice guys, i spent a couple of hours last night and once you take the ignition barrel out it all becomes obvious, all i had to do to mine was to fit a couple of washers to drop the height down a couple of mm and it workes perfect.
if only you could send beers over the forum cheers guys ! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#23 |
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Glad you worked our exactly what was needed
![]() Just one more thing to add. Make sure the I.D of the washers are large enough to go over the thread showing above the adjuster nut ![]() You need to be absolutely sure on that as if it just slightly under, it may look like they are sitting on the raised bit of the adjuster nut(as they should be) but in reality are not......this will effectively mean the top yoke wil be floating above the adjuter nut rather than do job of holding adjuster nut down. Ben |
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#24 | |
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I have fitted countless SRAD front ends onto Curvy SV's, I always use the SRAD steering stem and TWF bearing route and I have never had any allignment issues (whether vertically or horizontally). They all bolted up and fitted as if they were made for the SV, the only time I have experienced an allignment problem is when people use the SV steering stem. |
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