HID lighting

[the_lone_wolf]

righto, got all the bits i need to wire the beast, taking tomorrow off work to look after me mam and get this done, but i have one question left un-answered...

can i short the starter button so when it's pushed the power to the lights ISN'T cut? or will the extra drain on the battery cause starting problems?

[yorkie_chris]

Why bother?

[the_lone_wolf]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Why bother?

as explained earlier, the starter button doesn't just connect the starter motor circuit, it also cuts the headlamp circuit, fine with halogens as they just dim and come back, but HIDs apparently shouldn't be switched on/off quickly like that as it's not good for the ballasts

[yorkie_chris]

Ah right must have missed that post sorry...

Presuming there's a headlamp relay just chop the wire from the starter button, I'll just have a look in haynes and figure it out.

Edit: what bike are we on about here?

[the_lone_wolf]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

what bike are we on about here?

European K5 S model

looking at the wiring diagram in the back of my haynes there is no headlamp relay, the circuit runs straight through the switch to the bulbs (probably why it only has a 15A fuse...) it seems the easiest way would be to just short the headlamp wires from the starter button...

[yorkie_chris]

Yeah looks like it, forgot there was no actual light switch on a pointy.

Leave a tail on the connector if you cut the wires so the procedure can be reversed if needs be.

HID draws about 35W so I doubt this will be a problem if your battery is healthy

[the_lone_wolf]

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Yeah looks like it, forgot there was no actual light switch on a pointy.

Leave a tail on the connector if you cut the wires so the procedure can be reversed if needs be.

HID draws about 35W so I doubt this will be a problem if your battery is healthy

70W with two ballasts

but yeah, that's still less than two 55W bulbs. and the high current draw (the reason for the relay in the first place) is only present as the ballasts "gear up" whilst initiating and stabilizing the arc, i always wait for the fuel system to prime before starting the bike, so that habit should help keep the two higher current applications separate

so far i've designed the new harness for the HIDs to be completely removable without cutting/splicing any of thr stock wiring, but i reckon i'll have to come up with something more complex to not do it to the starter button...

pictures to follow tomorrow if i can be arsed to take any...

[yorkie_chris]

Take the pins out of the connector and wrap them in copper wire then heat shrink over the top of them? A weak spot but very easy to put back to standard.

[the_lone_wolf]

some pictures from today, due to not having a couple of things it took most of the day, but i'm happy with the result

my new HID loom (because i wanted the relays under the seat with the others...





where i eventually put the ballasts after about 90 mins of staring at the bike (other one on other side...)



sorry there's nothing better, it was hot and i wanted to get it done...

[yorkie_chris]

Whoa that's some neat wiring.