Carb set up help

As well as sorting the suspension this year I'm hoping to sort out the fuelling.

This is a copy of a dyno run I had done last year. Making the 72HP that I was after but not liking the way it made it.

Stripped the carbs today and they were fitted with 17.5 pilots and 160 mains and by the looks of it was using an aftgermarket needle with a couple of mm of spacers. Don't know what the pilot screws were set at as they'd been locktited in and I couldn't get one of htem out so having to swap everything over into a spare set of carbs I have.

Hoping to book some dyno time and I realise all bikes behave differently so I'm looking for advice on shifting the dip and an idea of what jets I need to take with me to the dyno.

I'm running injection cams, a BMC full race filter and a full M4 system.

Cheers.

Jody.

Id be more concerned about the rthe air fuel curve than the dip in the power curve ..starts of rich (it would do slightly anyway if that was a full throttle run) but it runs off way too lean and then rich at the top end.

Throw it all away, std needles, clean std filter and jet to suit imo, race filter's generally give a hole somewhere for a small gain elsewhere (hence lean at bottom, rich at top on your graph)

Not sure if it helps but I'm running the following:

BMC race RS filter
Full WRP titanium system
Injection cams
Dynojet needle (can't remember where the spacers are set)
17.5 pilots
175 Dynojet mains (~162.5/165 in Mikuni sizes)
2.5 turns on a/f screws

Its never been dyno'd but has been happy with the above for the last 15k road miles. When initially set up I spent ages trying to get the fuelling to feel good. I couldn't get the results I wanted with the standard needle so switched to dynojet which seemed to help. Unfortunately these have known issues with erosion on the emulsion tubes. Like you said all bikes are different so YMMV.