mutimeter advice?

Originally Posted by hovi5

ohms

100% .....6.27
75%......6.27
60 & 50%......0.00-6.27

volts seems to jump all over the place for the first 2 secs
then @ all settings flash between

0.00- 14.67

dont know how to do the amps.? the multimeter i borrowed looks quite complycated (to me)

dodgy grips??
ps i have to go out at 10.30.........I'LL BE BACK about 12ish

pps........ mr oxford asked me for the code number on the grip ? the only number on the grip is a 9 or a 6 ?? theres a lot of writing on the cable coming from the grip including 1997 (this is the year of the recal??)

Take a picture of your DMM, and I'll tell you how to set it up for current readings.

So far, we've established that 100% power & 75% power gives the same resistance. OK what? 75% power should give 25% resistance. 0% power (off) should give 100% resistance. 50% power gives 50% resistance. The more resistance (higher Ohms reading) the less power to the grips, so the cooler they are.

I would expect that the new style controller is still just a variable resistor (with a bit of extra trickery for the battery level detection). If it was simply a resistor, the above paragraph would stand.

If it's also a pulse generator (power turned on & off quickly by the controller, timing depends on power setting), that might account for the fluctuations in readings. But I doubt they'd go to the expense of a 12v DC pulse generator just for that unit. Seems very overly complicated to me if they have, and therefore more prone to failure.

The voltage jumping around seems to indicate the previous paragraph (it seems to show that it's a pulse generator AND a resistor).

To measure current, you need to be in series with the grips. To do this, 2 small croc clips & a bit of wire. Connect one pin from the controller using the croc clip, then connect the other end of the wire to the matching pin on the grips connector block. The other wire gap is filled by the DMM.

Basically, to measure voltage or resistance, you can be in series or parallel, but to measure current, you have to break the circuit & fill the gap with the DMM.

If you're still running around in circles mate, I'm free this weekend & can meet you somewhere like Bala/Dolgellau with my DMM You could even take my grips off at the same time

To be honest, it looks like the controller is at fault. Are you doing these tests with one grip plugged in, and the DMM where the other grip should be?

Originally Posted by Baph

. Are you doing these tests with one grip plugged in, and the DMM where the other grip should be?

yes?

sorry i have to go out i wont be long

No need to apologise fella, I'm stuck in the office with sod all to do. The sun is shining, but it's a tad chilly out Boss thinks there's going to be work coming my way in a bit.

For now, I shall have to entertain myself by other means (careful now!).

So far, you've been doing the tests right. You could probably measure current like this, but it depends on the circuit inside the wee box. EDIT: Also, only one grip plugged in will draw half the expected current, something to bare in mind

I have no idea about the product codes etc, I've never looked close enough.

I've got hotgrips on my curvy too ...

I have done all this testing myself when mine were so feeble heat wise … I think you will find they are not faulty, they are just p00!!! I'd never buy Oxford hotgrips again or recommend them to anyone ...

I actually thought I had ‘splashed out’ on the best you can buy when I got them, I was sorely mistaken … my chepo £20 ones I had on another bike were far FAR more effective …

IM BACK

in not convinced that the control box is the problem as i said when i bypassed the control box one grip at a time they still dont get hot?
i have the older dail type which i have just fitted to see if its any better, but it wasnt last time

Originally Posted by hovi5

IM BACK

in not convinced that the control box is the problem as i said when i bypassed the control box one grip at a time they still dont get hot?
i have the older dail type which i have just fitted to see if its any better, but it wasnt last time

mybe blue is right, & im expecting too much?

but the name should be changed to luke warm grips

some peeps say on full power they are too hot to hold? its hard to judge how hot mine are but i can hold them with no gloves on until i get bored. can feel very slight heat through thin leather gloves, MYBE ITS Got somthing to do with the metal the clipons is made from?

HTH?

Originally Posted by hovi5

mybe blue is right, & im expecting too much?

but the name should be changed to luke warm grips

some peeps say on full power they are too hot to hold? its hard to judge how hot mine are but i can hold them with no gloves on until i get bored. can feel very slight heat through thin leather gloves, MYBE ITS Got somthing to do with the metal the clipons is made from?

HTH?

Told you before mine are so hot on full power that I can barely hold the bars with gloves on!

The metal does have something to do with it though. Later grips are designed for a more heat dissipating metal.

I AM A GOD.............. I JUST BURNT MY HAND ON MY HOTGRIPS

Originally Posted by hovi5

I AM A GOD.............. I JUST BURNT MY HAND ON MY HOTGRIPS

Go on then, what's the secret I have wired mine direct bypassing the control box completely BTW ...