Flatslides

Stick with the OEM carbs in my opinion.

Flat-slides are good when they work to your advantage, but the OEM's are one of the best on any bike and they are more practical/adaptable to road riding.

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

Well the main difference is you can't just give it a handful and have done, you have to match throttle position and revs.

Correct.

Originally Posted by yorkie_chris

4-8bhp

Don't believe everything you read about tuning SV's, there are a lot of armchair tuners out there (on this forum too!)

Originally Posted by fastdruid

I'm just not sure that it's worth getting over say a slipper clutch and a number of trackdays.

You would have mid-high 80bhp with a well made mild SV700, not really enough to justify having a slipper clutch.

flats and cam swap is about 10hp, best mod you can do for money.
only issue for street bike with flats is no choke and in cold weather it can be painful.

[fastdruid]

Originally Posted by Dangerous Dave

You would have mid-high 80bhp with a well made mild SV700, not really enough to justify having a slipper clutch.

79BHP atm but a secondhand engine and I have no idea what's in there.

Hell the NC35 has a slipper clutch and that has 56BHP! It's nothing to do with the amount of power and all to do with preventing the rear wheel skipping under downchanges.

Totally pointless on the road, handy into mansfield.

Druid

I have only played with flatslides on thumpers. Probably worth something in terms of power, but their advantage for me was response and the ability to loft the front wheel over some obstacle with the wrist instead of abusing the clutch with a CV.
Injection trumps flat slides.

Druid, have you tried cranking the idle up to your racing rev range? Not talking 2-3k btw, more like 7k++... 1.5-2k above the low shift point is doable.

Originally Posted by fastdruid

It's nothing to do with the amount of power and all to do with preventing the rear wheel skipping under downchanges.

I know what a slipper clutch does and I know exactly how it operates, what I am saying is your bike is not producing enough engine breaking to justify having a slipper clutch. Don't believe the hype when you read you will shave a tenth of a second a lap, its a low powered SV not a 996/999/1098/1198.

Originally Posted by MattCo

7k++...

Way to high, the SV is a V-twin not an older IL4

[fastdruid]

Originally Posted by Dangerous Dave

I know what a slipper clutch does and I know exactly how it operates, what I am saying is your bike is not producing enough engine breaking to justify having a slipper clutch. Don't believe the hype when you read you will shave a tenth of a second a lap, its a low powered SV not a 996/999/1098/1198.

I beg to differ, higher compression and lower gearing (than stock) makes quite a difference, it's enough to lose traction on cold tyres just by backing off.

I care not for 1/10's[1] more for having an easier life, braking hard into corners with aggressive downshifts and the rear skips and bounces, I use a tadge of clutch to smooth it out so if nothing else it would make it far easier on my clutch hand to have a slipper clutch.

It would also tbh allows a certain amount of hamfistedness in changing down or even mistakes such as forgetting you have a race shift and shifting down rather than up.

Druid

[1] If I was just after laptimes I wouldn't still have an SV, a cheap 500quid CBR6 ex-race bike would be far faster, hell even a std one was showing 140 on the clocks at the end of park.

[fastdruid]

Originally Posted by MattCo

Druid, have you tried cranking the idle up to your racing rev range? Not talking 2-3k btw, more like 7k++... 1.5-2k above the low shift point is doable.

I'm not keen, I don't like the feeling, it's almost like riding a 2-stroke again!

Druid

[yorkie_chris]

I would rather not crack engine open and start fitting more weight on pistons before the induction is at its best.
Exhaust is full M4 which should cope with it fine.

What is comparison like between flats and stock carbs with pod filters?

If I was going to go really mad I would fit new rods and 700cc kit and get crank balanced to suit.

probably irrelevant to your questions but i had flatsides on my old zx and i found the throttle very hesitant. i gave up trying to get them sorted and bought a secondhand set of cv