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#11 |
Noisy Git
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By the time you've tried sorting that you might as well live with it IMO.
I wouldn't use 20w50 as it's a bit thicker when cold*, some of the modern synthetics come in 10 or 15w50 varieties so try that by preference. *Though it will probably be fine.
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#12 |
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Mines had 4 oil changes in 9k (approx 10l through) I think its burned about 2 litres in that period.
I think DT suggestion could be the way forward and see what it does on that oil. 200- 250 miles between top ups is a lot (roughly 200ml a time sound about right BC, still in the tolerances LP has quoted). If it doesn't improve on the thicker oil, the control rings and bores are very loose (tolerance wise) Nicked from the Workshop manual to save you hunting ![]()
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RIP Reeder 20/07/1988 - 21/03/2012. Always missed squire!!! Every year we meet old friends, gain some new ones, lose old ones and you always remember them all. “Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.” Mahatma Gandhi Last edited by andrewsmith; 09-05-11 at 02:04 PM. |
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#13 |
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Will thicker oil be ok in my engine? If there's a chance it might damage something I'd rather just keep topping up?
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#14 |
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A 20w50 is thicker when cold but hardly likely to affect starting. As the chart shows is compatible for -10 to +40 degrees. Try a 15w40 as Chris suggests first and if no joy go up to the 20w50. Possibly because the weather has warmed up your engine is running slightly hotter than in the winter making your current oil a bit thinner and the crank is throwing it up causing more splash on the bores which is in turn getting past the rings and being burnt off, although not to a degree where it is noticeable in the exhaust I take it you have no oil leaks
Obviously with a fairly high mileage engine it is not uncommon to get increased oil consumption due to overall wear on the rings and bores and not all engines are the same-------BUT,if you can live with topping up every second tank of petrol continue to do so using your current choice of oil,after all it is hardly likely to break the bank and you always have fairly fresh oil in your engine. |
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#15 |
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Which is what Pete & Lissa's SV used and they did thousands of miles on it. I know of a few others that use that amount of oil as well. If the thicker oil don't cure/reduce it, just keep remembering to top up.
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#16 |
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Its interesting that anecdotally I can only remember curvy engines being reported as using oil. Its also interesting that the pointy engines have oil cooliers...
For the record my original curvy drank oil like a two stroke. I wonder if its possible to retrofit a pointy oil cooler to a curvy engine? I think the mounts are there for it, but the oil hose holes are not. |
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#17 |
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It is how they are run in that seems to make difference.
Mine is higher mileage engine and doesn't use much, I keep a pint in the tankbag and that generally lasts in between services.
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#18 |
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wifes curvey uses a bit as does my pointy,but to a lesser degree.
Have you checked the airbox drain,just in case. I think ours use a bit on the overrun, as we have similar riding styles and run on above the midrange,but perhaps not? Both low mileage bikes |
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#19 | |
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It even say in the handbook that 1ltr per 1000 miles is not unusual.
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6.67300 × 10-11 m3 kg-1 s-2 Last edited by G; 09-05-11 at 06:40 PM. |
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#20 |
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Try looking under the sump to see if the plug is still there....
My old 40k pointy used to burn a bit of oil but nothing like yours |
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