What have you tinkered with today?

Originally Posted by SV650rules

Think the biggest I have got is about 75watt, mind you when the radiator on my Vauhall Viva leaked around the top seam I shaped a big lump of copper ( about 50mm x 20mm x 70mm long with a steel rod and wooden file handle ) with a smaller end to fit into the solder channel around top of rad and heated it up with gas stove burner and it did the job beautifully..

Thinking about it that Viva was a right bag of 5h1t ....

Also got a couple of Iroda butane powered soldering iron with several tips and a blowtorch nozzle, useful for heatshrink sleeving. Means you don't need a mains cable and they are about 35 watts ( adjustable ).

Good story about the Vauxhall Viva!

How about this problem: the header pipe on my 1976 Suzuki Bloop has a couple of pin holes in it where the metal had just worn thin over the years. At the moment they are sealed with a MS sleeve I made, secured with some stainless steel marine type zip ties (about 10mm wide) and lined with exhaust paste (this works just fine - it looks a tad scruffy, but is perhaps in keeping with the bike). The metal is too thin to risk MIG welding, so I'm thinking an old fashioned solder patch might do the job - or perhaps brazing (I have not used brazing for 30 years).

What do you think? It might be a bit of a risk - and I suppose I might just end up having to source a replacement header.

Alan

Spooky... just after I posted the reply above to SV650rules I thought I'd just check eBay to see if there was a Bloop header pipe for sale (they are not so common now in the UK)... and would you believe I picked up a NOS item for only £45. I'm pretty pleased with that and will post a photo of my Bloop with its shiny new header fitted next week

[DarrenSV650S]

Fitted a SpeedoHealer to account for the bigger rear sprocket. You wouldn't believe where Aprilia put the connector for the speedo pickup. Wedged between the engine and the frame. The only way to see it is by peering through a tiny gap on the other side of the bike. I tried all sorts of hooks and rods to unclip the connector. Eventually the brittle plastic clip snapped off. Then healer unit just sticks on with sticky velcro

[garynortheast]

Oil and filter change. The next one will be due at 94,700 miles.

[DarrenSV650S]

Out on the bike today it suddenly got louder and sounded like crap. I stopped and part of the sleeve gasket for the rear cylinder downpipe was lying on the swingarm. I headed home quickly to get to the dealer before they closed. Luckily they had the gasket in stock. I disassembled the exhaust, got the gasket in, impressed with how quickly I had turned it around on a bank holiday weekend. Started it up to check it was ok. Sounded back to normal. Then I noticed water was being sprayed on the hugger. The Arrow splitter pipe has lived up to its name again. That is 3 times it has cracked. Even with a new brace put in. I don't know what else to do with it.

[R1ffR4ff]

Fully key the area and,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Abro-Stee...frcectupt=true

Some of my bodges have outlasted the vehicles :O

Can be sanded smooth and then touched up with a bit of silver heat paint.

[DarrenSV650S]

I did it the proper way though!

Professionally welded and it just breaks. Would that stuff last any longer?

[R1ffR4ff]

Originally Posted by DarrenSV650S

I did it the proper way though!

Professionally welded and it just breaks. Would that stuff last any longer?

It doesn't cost much so give it a go.Nothing to lose if it doesn't.I used some on a motorcycle radiator years ago and it lasted and worked.OK the rad doesn't take the temps an exhaust does but a Rad is under constant pressure so still gets stressed.

Originally Posted by NakedHound

Just wondered what you have been doing to your bike today? Whether it be a service, a repair or a modification (or even just giving the dirty girl a good old wash down). Thought it would be good to acknowledge those little efforts that help keep your steed running sweetly.



Am fairly new to Org, so if there is a similar active thread, please send me the link.



I got my first big bike 2 mths ago , its a 2001 naked with 50k (and needing lots of TLC)



As my front brake was binding I decided to investigate. I loosened bobbins using a nut and bolt and cleaner. Whilst cleaning I noticed that one of the front calipers had perished seals (one was half hanging out) and was full of corrosion. Ive not had much hands on experience with mechanics, but after watching a variety of Utube vids, I felt like having a go at rebuilding the caliper. The pistons needed a fair amount of attention.



The new seals arrived today and I was able to put everything together and bleed the brakes etc.....problem solved...and brakes are much more responsive...I guess the pistons must have been jamming before.



I felt quite pleased with myself after, especially as two blokes I ride out with, said they had never dared mess with their own calipers, other than to change pads. These blokes have done 80 years of riding between them....wtf!!!

Well done! Most jobs on bikes (particularly the SV - it is a simple bike and easy to work on), so don’t be scared to have a go, there is always a middle aged man with a beard on YouTube that will give you a good idea, and almost certainly someone on this site if you get stuck.

Good fortune,

Alan


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[Seeker]

Originally Posted by DarrenSV650S

That is 3 times it has cracked. Even with a new brace put in. I don't know what else to do with it.

From the sound of it (!) either the splitter has a resonant frequency the same as engine vibration or the complete system has the resonance and the splitter is the weakest link.

Are the silencers rubber mounted and, if not, could they be? Is there room to splice in something like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Car-Exhau...ter/B00GHQB7PS

If/when you get it re-welded - get the welder to add braces top and bottom between the "Y".


Have you tried speaking to Arrow?