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#151 |
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#152 |
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#153 |
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A quiet saturday morning saw me dragging her out for an oil change and a tick over.
![]() After doing everything nice and easy, feeling very smug with a nice job well done. I tidied up and put her back in the "race team shed" then set about the nasty job of cleaning out the still full oil pan. To find this: To quote the great Sir James May: "Oh ****!" ![]() I had noticed lack of washer when replacing the sump plug but thought those clever boys at Suzuki must've come up with a nice new way of making them with out the need!! So I set to, managed to get the plug out and back in with copper washer with only a quarter cup of oil lost! Last edited by Redmist; 05-01-16 at 10:29 PM. |
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#154 |
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Hi Redmist
Cracking build! Out of interest, how does your seat unit attach? I have the same unit on my minitwin but it bolts to a lightweight subframe - 2 bolts towards the rear of the actual seat bit, and 2 through the long side bits at the front. However, the seat is always showing signs of stress (paint cracking and rear of seat will flex quite a bit) so I want to change it. I have an OEM subframe now and am thinking of putting this on. Any pics of the actual fittings on yours would be great. Thanks |
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#155 | |
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The seat uses the standard subframe which is alloy. I had to cut off a couple of bits (Think they were for hanging helmets off) and bend a small piec flat that was sticking up near the seat lock. Then I bent one piece of metal into an s shape which holds the rear part of the seat and a upside down U to hold the front of the seat. ![]() However the rear part of the seat remains unsupported and it too shows sign of stress at the point where the rear hump meets the flat seat section. Not too fussed by it myself, I have the classic CBR seat unit to fit when I get round to ordering a race subframe. |
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#156 |
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Ah I see. Thanks for the info.
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#157 |
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So I decided to finally fit the RVRacing battery box that I had lying around.
At first look it wasn't going to be a straight fit onto the pointy. Hence why it was sat around. But I re-drilled the mounting hole, then cut the original engine bolt spacer. I cut about 13mm off the spacer and used it to space off the box from the engine with the rest of the spacer taking up the rest. Here is how it ended up fitting: ![]() The view from underneath: ![]() I wanted to use the original power cables, moving the fuse box too. Re-routing the cables was easy but the ground cable was agonisingly short: ![]() I located the other end of the cable at the back of the gearbox and moved it up to another bolt a bit higher up. Then it reached albeit with it screwed upside down to the battery terminal. Anyway here is the final cable fitting, you can see the grey extension cable which reconnects the plug to the fuse box all the way from the ECU at the rear of the bike. ![]() I am not sure it clears the fairing, but it will! Also not so happy with the coolant pipe bent like that, maybe a new silcone jobby is in order! Last edited by Redmist; 05-01-16 at 10:30 PM. |
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#158 |
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After one cut required on the fairing lowers to clear the bottom corner of the new box, all went back together:
![]() ![]() Chuffed. Last edited by Redmist; 05-01-16 at 10:30 PM. |
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#159 |
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#160 |
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Having wanting a steering damper, but not sure how to fit, or which one would fit, I spotted one going on ebay that looked ok for a cheap punt.
30 notes later, this turned up: ![]() It has a six point adjuster from ridiculously stiff to nice and smooth. Obviously the clamp is too big for my needs, so I'm looking for a 41mm one. (The seller is sending a 2nd clamp but I doubt its 41mm either). Shame that the clamp may cost almost as much as the damper!! Anyway I had a go at fitting and ended up with it just under the clocks. Screwed to the bottom hole of the subframe mount. There is space for it to move around and has a strong anchor point. ![]() ![]() If you have other fitting suggestions or ideas please let me know! . Last edited by Redmist; 05-01-16 at 10:31 PM. |
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