Bent Banana - The SV resurrection.

[Dave20046]

Originally Posted by Dangerous Dave

Double check for any leaks and that all the banjo bolts are fully tightened to 23Nm, then re-bleed the brake system.

Sorry to be a but are the banjo bolts the bolts that go through the hoses into the reservoir 'hose union bolts'? The manual doesn't use the term.

Also any tips on bleeding the brakes? I've never bled anything before car or bike.

Originally Posted by Dave20046

Sorry to be a but are the banjo bolts the bolts that go through the hoses into the reservoir 'hose union bolts'? The manual doesn't use the term.

Yes, thats right. The full official name is Brake Hose Banjo Bolts....

Originally Posted by Dave20046

Also any tips on bleeding the brakes? I've never bled anything before car or bike.

Nice and simple/basic way, remove the reservoir top and top it up with fluid. Place an 8mm spanner and a piece of hose on the bleed nipple...



...pull the brake lever in and undo the nipple, tighten the nipple back up and then release the lever. Do not release the lever before tightening up the nipple, you will draw air back into the system! Repeat this process, whilst insuring the fluid is above the minimum line in the reservoir, until the fluid starts to run bubble free out of the nipple. Repeat the process on the other side, they lever will start to feel harder to pull (bear in mind the lever will only start to become harder to pull when both lines are bled).

Once both line are bled zip-tie the lever back and leave over night, this will force the air to the bottom and in the morning on last twiddle with the nipples will release any trapped air.



There are other methods and gizmo's which you can use, however as a bike carrys very little fluid I find it only takes a maximum of 5 minutes per line doing a dry system.

[Dave20046]

Originally Posted by Dangerous Dave

Yes, thats right. The full official name is Brake Hose Banjo Bolts....



Nice and simple/basic way, remove the reservoir top and top it up with fluid. Place an 8mm spanner and a piece of hose on the bleed nipple...



...pull the brake lever in and undo the nipple, tighten the nipple back up and then release the lever. Do not release the lever before tightening up the nipple, you will draw air back into the system! Repeat this process, whilst insuring the fluid is above the minimum line in the reservoir, until the fluid starts to run bubble free out of the nipple. Repeat the process on the other side, they lever will start to feel harder to pull (bear in mind the lever will only start to become harder to pull when both lines are bled).

Once both line are bled zip-tie the lever back and leave over night, this will force the air to the bottom and in the morning on last twiddle with the nipples will release any trapped air.



There are other methods and gizmo's which you can use, however as a bike carrys very little fluid I find it only takes a maximum of 5 minutes per line doing a dry system.

Cheers Dave, really useful. I've needed to know how to bleed brakes for ages! I'm going to give it a pop when the levers are on the bars properly and the wheels in so I don't have to **** about separating the pads.

But at the mo these cables (and hoses) are still really ****ing me off. They don't look right although according to the service manual I've routed them fine. I'll pop up a picture so you know what I mean.

[Dave20046]

Right I know I've been going on about this and they're crap photos (can get better if needed) but can anyone point out how simple I am? What am I doing wrong? This is how the cables go according to how I read the service manual but it looks so wrong. Has anyone got any pics of a naked around this area?
31122008.jpg

31122008(001).jpg

Thats the usual aftermarket set-up, do the lines run behind the forks and bottom yoke? They should run down the front of both...


Ignore the twist in the lines, this is due to a different mastercylinder and angle of the banjo bolt.

[Dave20046]

What a piece of ****. Put the battery on to test whether things even running and there's no power Any ideas? I've not got the tank on or too much plugged in round the headlamp bowl area. Is there anything in there that's kill it?

[northwind]

If it's anything like the faired model (the looms are different) then you need to have both sets of switchgear either plugged in or bypassed, because of the clutch lockout and the kill switch.

[Dave20046]

Originally Posted by northwind

If it's anything like the faired model (the looms are different) then you need to have both sets of switchgear either plugged in or bypassed, because of the clutch lockout and the kill switch.

poo I insured the switchgears and clutch sensor were all plugged in
It's actually not giving any power to anything, clocks etc.

[yorkie_chris]

No power at all? Have you disconnected the ignition switch?

[northwind]

Starter relay/main fuse?