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#11 |
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What is it that the dyno there is showing?
I might go to the local shop to me who does dyno runs and get him to do mine with what i have done now just to see how my bike is running... ATM all i have done is the end can but i did run a while with snorkel out. I put it back in for service just incase anything happened before the warrently went off. So dyno with No snorkel and Scorpion end can... then i have a start point. Ill try to get it done after this shif cycle is over. Ill post it for you oggle ![]() |
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#12 |
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Powa! Basically, the red curve is standard, the blue curve is with the ignition advancer in. The bottom set of curves is torque. I'd say myself that the red run is a bit weak, and that the blue run looks better than it should by comparison, but you can see the difference in lower down power and torque.
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#13 |
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I know what the lines mean
![]() ![]() Interesting that then. How does the ignition advancer fit, N' if i use a Power commander wouldnt i get this option through that? While im mentioning the power commander, any idea if there is a good place to get one dyno setup near yorkshire? Taaa North. P.S. How is Eve going? ![]() |
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#14 |
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My bike did 68 bhp on the dyno before its various modifications. I have to say that the cost benefit of getting more power doesn't make much sense. My bike had as much spent on it as it was worth by the previous owner to get 16 bhp more. It's always going to be cheaper to get a different bike.
Suspension mods on the other hand make a huge difference IMHO. Combine them with some sticky tyres and you'll be going faster and having more fun with the same power output. |
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#15 |
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Yea i hear you on that. Thats why with the power im mostly only wanting to know about simple (resonably) cheap options... No big CC kits for me.
Another reason other than power for me to be interested is the apparent increase in aconomy as well! So it should be a win win situation. ![]() |
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#16 | |
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Sorry Gr33k! I believe they're rw but it doesn't really matter, it's the shape of the curve that's important in those ones. There's 2 ways to do it, you can either move the ignition timing pickup a degree or two in the case, or you can move the generator rotor around on the crank by a couple of degrees using the offset key JHS sells. It's cheap for parts but takes a while to do.
Eve is going OK, I got very bored of it but then I moved corp and it's much better, I hadn't realised how bad the old shower was ![]() ![]() Quote:
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"We are the angry mob, we read the papers every day We like what we like, we hate what we hate But we're oh so easily swayed" |
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#17 |
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Hmmm well the ignition advancer is an option. But there is one thing i dont quite get with it... Why wouldnt the ignition be advanced out of the factory? I mean if it makes that much difference.
The bike atm is feeling very nice in the corners ![]() North you tell your insurers about every mod? N' if so what do they think? Ive been fighting BoB for a while... Im taking a short break atm. I just cant seem to get into it at the mo.just left my chars training upto HAC's. Should be nice ![]() |
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#18 |
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They back the advance off a bit to reduce NOX emissions
EU strikes again
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#19 | |
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![]() Aye, I tell them... They think "Excellent, more money!". The hard part is actually getting the mods covered, I could insure it fairly cheaply elsewhere but it'd mean getting a stupidly low payout in the event of a claim. It's not so much more expensive to cover the mods, just that only expensive insurers will do it. I just trained the HACs skill, I didn't notice that you also need cruiser 5 to drive one- I've got an Ishtar parked up that I can't drive for another 20 days! Woe. Plus, I sold my Navy Vexor to pay for it. I'm that good... I think we're about to get in a war with some local hisec griefers, which would be much appreciated.
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#20 | |
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