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#11 |
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Did the exact same thing to mine(mine was not restricted though). You should run well, except you're going to have to take the restrictor out if it's the standard air intake restriction. That's what I heard it is on our SV650N X. Make sure you have the air mixture screws backed out to 2.5 turns for starters. The restriction should just be brass washers I hear that let a smaller amount of air in. I really only notice the difference up top, when you are on the full main jets, over 1/2 throttle to WFO. In fact, you may lose a hair of snap off stops, but, nothing discouraging. Best ditch the brass or else I'm not sure upping your mains is going to do anything other than flood you. p.s. do not feel obliged to tell me online that you might actually derestrict it
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#12 |
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The suzuki kit doesn't use washers, the FI int. kit does though.
The suzuki kit is carb sliders with a hole through them to stop them raising all the way. The FI kit goes after the carb, so it doesn't really affect mixture. I'll be using a throttle stop for restriction so it will not affect mixture and be easy to remove when the 2 years is up.
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#13 |
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Nice thing is, you can always pick up a new air filter for 60 euro (sterling?) and slap the old jets back in and you'll be back to normal.
other things: The carb screws are butter. If you can, replace them with SS cap screws. Keep a drift or screwdriver handy, I had to pound on a few of them to start them turning, having to replace 4 ouf of 6 or whatever. Watch out, you're likely to get fuel everywhere, so have rags ready. Careful taking the carbs out that you don't break the plastic splitter that turns the single choke cable into two cables. Everyone does. I'd also get a super long phillips head screwdriver for getting the bloody airbox off. Best to do a carb sync everytime you mess with them. It's a really handy time to oil your choke cables. Keep your barrels and carbs covered with rags or foil. Careful not to ding your floats, they are flimsy parts. Also, if you are going to that trouble, check your plugs and if not mint, get new ones. good luck -D |
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#14 |
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WTF SV do you have? Thought you had a carbed curvy. Don't pay attention to me. I see you're an engineer (student). Nerd. Me too.
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#15 |
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When he's talking about FI, that's a manufacturer of restrictors not as in Fuel Injection
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#16 |
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#17 |
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Stainless cap screws and copper slip is a great idea.
Usually takes an impact driver to get the bowl off too. The mixture screw on the front is going to be the total pig to move, might even have to drill it ![]()
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#18 |
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You may not know until you get the carbs off if the mixture screws are already accessible or not, as the access to them is terrible in situ. Mine supposedly came from Germany, and had them open, whether stock or by a previous owner. They were at 2.5 turns out already. I tried 2.75 and it was way too rich. You need this ultra rare tool, a flathead screw driver made of unobtanium with a 90 degree swivel on it to mess with them in situ. You can undo the throttle cables on the carb though, leave the choke cables in and free up the idle cable and bend the carbs enough in place to adjust them. Much easier than taking the whole carb body off again. 2.5 is pretty generic though and should work. You might start with a new filter too, mine is probably stock, and super dirty inside, so who knows what kinda flow I'd get with a clean one?? I just didn't want to butcher a new one.
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#19 |
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Had them off before, couldn't shift the front screw at all.
Might make a tool, or might just set it up to 2.5 and leave it at that unless thats way out.
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#20 |
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I mucked about with mine for ages, then eventually set them back to 2 and a half. The joys of trial and error.
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