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#11 |
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Same clocks as in totally interchangeable?
It's all going to depend on getting the sensor to give a pulse for every 1/4 rotation of the wheel like the standard sensor does, work out rpm of sprocket at say 100 mph and see how many magnets you'll need.
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#12 |
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i wont need any magnets chris.. thats where the rotor comes in ... its designed to match the sensor of the 1000 at the front sprocket output... as the front sprocket goes round the rotor goes at the same rate... its a 1000 factory fit item.. and as far as i can tell from ron ayers ... yes the 1000 clocks are a direct replacemant.. they are only 1 number out.
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#13 |
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OK then that rotor is either magnetic, or has a number of "teeth" which the sensor can detect. That's how hall effect sensors work, with my setup it's neodymium magnets, they can also "see" gear teeth or any lump of iron going past it AFAIK
How do you know that the 1 digit difference isn't a totally different frequency counter to anticipate 10hz/mph instead of 4hz/mph or whatever?
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#14 |
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cant be 100% but its highly unlikley that suzuki would do a complete rework of the clocks for the 1000
and yes the rotor is magnetic ... i've found 1 and it will be orderd 2morra .. if it dont work i've not lost anything apart from time and money .. time i have loads of ... the money i can always sell the hall effect if it works. untill everyone finds out about this working. lol suzuki would have probebly used the 650 speedo sensor on the 1000 if there was enough space in the forks/wheel. anyway i'm keeping my fingers crossed. it'l be a plug and prey. |
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#15 |
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Sorry to bring up an old thread, but did it work?
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#16 |
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i sat and thought about it then decided no to.. i opted for the magnets and hall effect sensor..
which worked a treat and is verrrry verrry accurate and have had no problems what so ever... i was going to do it the other way just for aesthetics (might do it yet) |
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#17 |
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Ok, thanks for the response. I'm attempting this now and was curious what others had done.
I'll let ya'll know how it goes. |
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#18 |
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will be keeping my eye on this one...
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#19 |
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Well I did it! Worked like a charm, except for a few things.
1. The rotor thing (or whatever you call it) looks like it is supposed to be sunk into the output shaft, which I did. Only later did I realize I did NOT need to do that. I had to stick a small spacer in there. I really should have checked it first. Oh well. 2. The stock clutch mechanism thing WILL hit the rotor. You can trim it down, which will give you a harder pull, or do what I did and fit a hydraulic clutch to your bike. 3. You'll need some way to fix your speedo. This should be a given, but I thought I would mention it. Other than that I haven't had any problems yet and it seems to work very well. |
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#20 |
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interesting... any photos?
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