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#11 |
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It's fixed! Used wire thread inserts. Not a happy process but thanks for the advice. I rigged a kind of jig for drilling out the first one and then used Viney's suggestion for the second. Nor perfectly centred on the originals which made me sweat but there's enough tollerance in the bits to let it work. Hope it lasts.
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#12 |
No, I don't lend tools.
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I can't stress this enough: Unless the nuts come undone immediately and with little effort, (very rare, but not completely unknown);
DO NOT CONTINUE. We've been here several times, the only certain way to remove them if they're at all troublesome is to cut them off, it only takes a few minutes and will save you a proper headache. Add to this that the rear pipe has a sleeve gasket section - there's usually no need to remove the nuts/studs anyway, it certainly isn't needed to remove the swingarm or the engine, and if you have removed the engine the rear studs are as easy to work on as the front.
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#13 |
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If I had thought about this, I would definitely have used the sleeve gasket option.
My exhaust was retained at the engine by allen bolts so the cutting off option didn't exist. |
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#14 |
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Mine are bent, does anyone know the size of the stud and where they could be bought online? Will robinsons do them?
cheers
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#15 | |
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You can get the studs from Robinson's, best to source some stainless steel ones and some stainless steel nuts though (Curvy). Curvy SV650 OEM Part Number: 01421-08253 Last edited by Dangerous Dave; 28-12-08 at 11:50 AM. Reason: Link Added |
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#16 | |
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#17 | |
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Some one on here has a link to SS studs. |
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#18 |
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Thanks dave, out of interest do you have any pics info on your bikes? Is the beast a curvy I'm sure I read somewhere you'd made it an 850
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#19 |
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PM'd
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#20 |
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Stainless M8 threaded bar is easy to find. Want me to make you some up dave200? Can send them with that cover.
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