My First Bike DIY Service

[Dave20046]

Originally Posted by dual-power sv

do you always need to drain and remove the rad or can you get away with not draining it and just letting it rest on the hoses, or can you get away without removing the rad aswel.

You can get away with removing the horn and hinging it out of the way but I didn't have a proper plug spanner and knew my radiator was well dodgy so did it like I did.

yea good point

thanks all, I will be giving it a shot over the weekend.

ste

These are my best practice rules for servicing. I'm not familiar with bikes yet, so impart my knowledge from servicing cars and information I have gathered while researching bikes.

If any of you have digital workshop manuals and servicing manuals for a bike, I would greatly appreciate acquiring these for SV650S 2000 W reg.

Always replace Oil Filter and Air Filter, or at least clean the air filter if you have a washable one. If there's a centrifugal oil filter, replace this every second service.

It is good practice to use an oil flush, Wurth being my favourite brand. Doing this every other oil change.

Be careful what oil you choose, it's best to stick to a good brand, but the most expensive is not always the best. Most part synthetics offer good lubrication qualities without the need or expense for fully synthetic. You should only go up the scale of oil quality, never back. If you currently use full synth, don't switch back to part as this can (this is a well documented but often disputed fact) cause damage to your engine.

I would opt for an oil change at maximum of every 2000 miles, but generally every 1500 on a bike (double for a car). If you're only going to do periodic oil changes, then the start and end of the good and bad seasons are best, beginning of May and end of September. Make sure you buy enough for top ups of the same type and brand, never mix your oils.

As you're going to be getting your hands dirty anyway, I'd advise on coolant change - it should be changed at it's maximum every two years - older than this, it's chemical make up tends to break down and can start to corrode. Although they probably wouldn't do it in a main-stealers, I would completely remove the radiator and flush it clean before replacing the coolant.

If you've noticed sponginess of your brakes, one bottle of DOT4 is about £7 and worth bleeding your full system, before you do this, check pad wear. Never drain and replace brake fluid, bleed the system continually until your new fluid comes through. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time and changing it periodically will make a massive difference.

Chain as already stated previously, visually check and replace as necessary. I've never changed a bike chain, but would think it's easier to check fit and then remove wheel before riveting new one on to allow room for manoeuvre. I suppose I'll find out on my first chain change.

Check for free play in your clutch. Some cables are serviceable, some not. If it is serviceable, remove from lever, puncture hole in plastic sandwich or freezer bag, poke through hole and tape up to seal hole. Put clean engine oil in bag and suspend from wall or garage ceiling overnight. This will drain through and lubricate cable well. Place something on floor to catch any oil that escapes, and an old towel or cloth over the bottom end of the cable to soak up the worst.

While you've access to certain bit's of the bike that might not easily be get-attable, a spray mix of 1 part petrol to two parts oil used soon after mixing, will allow you to apply a thin film of oil to protect your bike. the petrol will evaporate leaving an nice thin film of oil which will help prevent from corrosion. This in the main part can be rubbed down with a soft cloth to help maintain an nice clean protective finish to your bike, obviously do not use on foot pegs, gear lever, foot brake pedal, brakes or tyres.

The rest should be fairly straight forward - check light bulbs etc. Lithium grease for hinged items such as centre or side stands. Check for improper movement of wheels and how true/balanced they move. Tyre pressures (but you check that every time you go out don't you?). Steering lock - handle bars that touch the fuel tank are an MOT failure. Check for unusual free play in the steering bearing. Check pre-load for rear suspension is as it should be - you will need the help of SWMBO for this. Check forks for leaks and seals. Some people tightly fit cable ties to forks and lower right down to the damper, then check after a comprehensive ride out, the damper will move the cable tie up the fork and show how much movement there is in the front suspension.

Get hold of official workshop manual and invest in a good set of socket and a good quality torque wrench. Check range of torque settings for most jobs you'll do on bike before you buy. Don't buy tools from Halfrauds.

That's about all I've got to say on this.

Originally Posted by stephencassidy

thanks all, I will be giving it a shot over the weekend.

ste

Start early on saturday morning, that way, if you eff anything up, you've got a little leeway with time to find help.

boot pm me your email and ill send you da manuels

To change the front spark plug you only have to take off the bottom radiator bolt on the right (brake) side of the bike and the radiator will swing up slightly to give you enough room. Well on a K6 anyway. Hardest bit of my service was removing the lower fairings in one piece!

Originally Posted by stephencassidy

Morning all.

I too am about to attempt my first DIY service. The bike is 4 years old and its the first time it will have been serviced by me.

Are there any hints and tips/advice that I need to tak on board?

I intend to change, oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs and the front brakes. Also how often does the chain/sprocket need changing (I've done about 10,000 miles I think) and is that a DIY job?

Many thanks

Ste

best tip.. give yourself twice as long as you think..

make lots of tea,

take 5 min rests and admire your work

AND - ensure you put your sump plug back on before you fill up your new oil.. and dont forget new filter AND oil change you need larger amount of oil..all inthe book..

it is soooo satisfying getting your hands dirty and doin your own service..

Originally Posted by boot

These are my best practice rules for servicing. I'm not familiar with bikes yet, so impart my knowledge from servicing cars and information I have gathered while researching bikes.

If any of you have digital workshop manuals and servicing manuals for a bike, I would greatly appreciate acquiring these for SV650S 2000 W reg.

Always replace Oil Filter and Air Filter, or at least clean the air filter if you have a washable one. If there's a centrifugal oil filter, replace this every second service.

It is good practice to use an oil flush, Wurth being my favourite brand. Doing this every other oil change.

Be careful what oil you choose, it's best to stick to a good brand, but the most expensive is not always the best. Most part synthetics offer good lubrication qualities without the need or expense for fully synthetic. You should only go up the scale of oil quality, never back. If you currently use full synth, don't switch back to part as this can (this is a well documented but often disputed fact) cause damage to your engine.

I would opt for an oil change at maximum of every 2000 miles, but generally every 1500 on a bike (double for a car). If you're only going to do periodic oil changes, then the start and end of the good and bad seasons are best, beginning of May and end of September. Make sure you buy enough for top ups of the same type and brand, never mix your oils.

As you're going to be getting your hands dirty anyway, I'd advise on coolant change - it should be changed at it's maximum every two years - older than this, it's chemical make up tends to break down and can start to corrode. Although they probably wouldn't do it in a main-stealers, I would completely remove the radiator and flush it clean before replacing the coolant.

If you've noticed sponginess of your brakes, one bottle of DOT4 is about £7 and worth bleeding your full system, before you do this, check pad wear. Never drain and replace brake fluid, bleed the system continually until your new fluid comes through. Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time and changing it periodically will make a massive difference.

Chain as already stated previously, visually check and replace as necessary. I've never changed a bike chain, but would think it's easier to check fit and then remove wheel before riveting new one on to allow room for manoeuvre. I suppose I'll find out on my first chain change.

Check for free play in your clutch. Some cables are serviceable, some not. If it is serviceable, remove from lever, puncture hole in plastic sandwich or freezer bag, poke through hole and tape up to seal hole. Put clean engine oil in bag and suspend from wall or garage ceiling overnight. This will drain through and lubricate cable well. Place something on floor to catch any oil that escapes, and an old towel or cloth over the bottom end of the cable to soak up the worst.

While you've access to certain bit's of the bike that might not easily be get-attable, a spray mix of 1 part petrol to two parts oil used soon after mixing, will allow you to apply a thin film of oil to protect your bike. the petrol will evaporate leaving an nice thin film of oil which will help prevent from corrosion. This in the main part can be rubbed down with a soft cloth to help maintain an nice clean protective finish to your bike, obviously do not use on foot pegs, gear lever, foot brake pedal, brakes or tyres.

The rest should be fairly straight forward - check light bulbs etc. Lithium grease for hinged items such as centre or side stands. Check for improper movement of wheels and how true/balanced they move. Tyre pressures (but you check that every time you go out don't you?). Steering lock - handle bars that touch the fuel tank are an MOT failure. Check for unusual free play in the steering bearing. Check pre-load for rear suspension is as it should be - you will need the help of SWMBO for this. Check forks for leaks and seals. Some people tightly fit cable ties to forks and lower right down to the damper, then check after a comprehensive ride out, the damper will move the cable tie up the fork and show how much movement there is in the front suspension.

Get hold of official workshop manual and invest in a good set of socket and a good quality torque wrench. Check range of torque settings for most jobs you'll do on bike before you buy. Don't buy tools from Halfrauds.

That's about all I've got to say on this.

Mega-post.

Mainly good advice, but I wouldn't change air filters as regularly as you suggest - it's false economy. Also, I wouldn't use engine flush as regularly - you will never get all of the flushing agent out after a change and it will thin your oil with its detergent properties.

Mixing oil is acceptable as long as the lubricants meet the same standards. In a race engine, maybe not - but in a road motor it won't do any harm. You'll mix oil every time you change to a different brand anyway as you can never drain every last drop out.

Rather than the engine oil/petrol mix idea, I'd favour ACF-50 or similar to prevent corrosion.

And Halfords is not the evil empire of doom most people make out. Their Halfords Professional range are very good quality and covered by a lifetime warranty.

Originally Posted by boot

I would opt for an oil change at maximum of every 2000 miles, but generally every 1500 on a bike (double for a car). If you're only going to do periodic oil changes, then the start and end of the good and bad seasons are best, beginning of May and end of September. Make sure you buy enough for top ups of the same type and brand, never mix your oils.

2000 miles max? you must be having a giraffe!!

That'd be a service every fortnight for me!



mostly sound advice mind.


Also Halfords Professional range are of a very high quality, I trust them with the full force of my knuckles, its the Suzuki cheese that will make you cry / bleed.