Stroking a 2-stroke.

Originally Posted by Sosha

While you're in the neighbourhood then - prob worth checking the oil pump is running OK.


EDIT: Kewwwwl

Ta...

Yes... I will need to make sure of that too. I've also got to pop the power valve motors off and make sure they are not seized, as the last time they where more jammed then a jammy thing. Got them working though and the made a satisfying 'Zitt, zitt...' noise.

Originally Posted by dizzyblonde

according to two smoke blue stroke at the end of the couch

check the suspension bearings, cause they can be deathtraps if not working properly.

What you taking about, is a 2-stroke 250... the whole things is a deathtrap. Lol, but I will.

Originally Posted by Stu

Forgive the semi derail. I didn't know 2 strokes used engine oil, other than the oil you pemix or the bike mixes with the petrol

Beautiful photo Get it running again

Lots of oil to think about... I think I was about 22 in that photo...

[jambo]

Good luck Dan,
I'll defer to the above advice, but I for one would be with Shosha and suzsv650 and have the heads off to check I was happy with what was occuring. 2 stroke motors are much simpler to strip and rebuild than 4 strokes, and I'd want to know if the bores were scored or rusted before I set off down the raod.

Originally Posted by Stu

Forgive the semi derail. I didn't know 2 strokes used engine oil, other than the oil you pemix or the bike mixes with the petrol

Stu, they use engine oil, but it doesn't sit in the sump sloshing about libricating the gearbox, as the transmission has it's own oil. The engine oil is fed in seperatly and either mixed with the fuel so it's carried past the big and little end bearings on it's way into the combustion chamber where it's burned, or fed directly onto these components in some cases. Either way the lubrication is total loss, but you need much less as there's no gear box, no shells, and no valve train to lubricate.

Hope this helps

Jambo

Well its all something else to keep me busy along with the 700cc job on the SV. Not sure where I'm going to pull the time out to do all this work. Might have to take the engine with me to London so I can work on it, lol, good job stokers are small.

[Dave20046]

Looks sweet, will be fun!
If it mixes itself I'd be tempted to leave it at that but I know a lot of people like to seal those up and mix it in the petrol tanks themselves. I thought you just wanted the basics to get it on the road quick but if you're doing it properly it probably is worth checking the barrel & pistons & changing the rings, never seen one of the engines but depending on its state you might want to swap the seals.

Give the PowerValve a good clean too.

[Stu]

Originally Posted by jambo

Stu, they use engine oil, but it doesn't sit in the sump sloshing about libricating the gearbox, as the transmission has it's own oil. The engine oil is fed in seperatly and either mixed with the fuel so it's carried past the big and little end bearings on it's way into the combustion chamber where it's burned, or fed directly onto these components in some cases. Either way the lubrication is total loss, but you need much less as there's no gear box, no shells, and no valve train to lubricate.

Hope this helps

Jambo

Cheers Jambo, that was pretty much my understanding, butthanks for clearing it up
Stu

[Bibio]

dont the kr1's have chromed barrels?

good advice as said above especially seals..

Originally Posted by Bibio

dont the kr1's have chromed barrels?

good advice as said above especially seals..

No idea... never had the head off. I know the early models the c1 and c2 where prone to piston ring pegs coming loose in the bore. It was fixed in the c3 but I have a c2 so will need to check that.

Originally Posted by Grinch

No idea... never had the head off. I know the early models the c1 and c2 where prone to piston ring pegs coming loose in the bore. It was fixed in the c3 but I have a c2 so will need to check that.

Get some aftermarket Pistons then, hec just get it rebored! LOL