Slow rev decrease

[yorkie_chris]

Yes that is the throttle cam

[5hort5]

ok well everything is moving correctly and springing to where it should be. I think I have found the main problem and fixed this with a new diaphragm/jet needle assembly from my spare carbs. Looks like the Muppet mechanic struck again when putting the carbs back together - doh!

So now it runs better on the drive and it seems to drop back better on the throttle although setting the idle at 1500 rpm it stays there for about 10 to 20 seconds and then drops off and stalls

One thing of note is there appears to be a small amount of oil in the airbox and on the black sliding thing on the front cylinder, could this just be a hangover from the first fault that's now fixed? shall I just run it and see how it goes or is there anything else I should try?

[Taipan]

I dont know what you was originally doing to the bike? But was it doing this before? The golden rule is go back to where you just worked as 9/10 times it something you've inadvertently done. It does sound like an airleak. Assuming it is an airleak and until a grown up shows up with some proper advice, this is where I'd start looking.

• Are the carbs definitely seated in the inlet rubbers properly?
• Did the air box rubbers come out of the airbox as these have a locating lug to keep them in the right place and flush. My first SV had the front one on wrong and was letting air in there.
• Airbox on the carbs properly? Its very easy to misalign it o rmaybe that's just me.
• Spigot for balancing on the front carb has its rubber sealing grommet on?

• All vacuum pipes to the fuel pump on okay? To eliminate this you could disconnect it for a second and just place your finger on the inlet spigot and give it a quick rev. If its still the same you could at least eliminate that side of things.

Cant think of anything else of hand.

[5hort5]

well, I think I have fixed the lumpy running and a few other bits with the diaphragm fix but I still have strange reving, so the videos pretty mush say it all.

Rev it and it drops back to 2.5k rpm, turn the idle screwdown a bit down and it drops it 1.5 or a bit lower if I turn it to far. Rev it and it sticks at 2.5k rpm then repeat turn down the ideal screw a touch, etc etc.

The second one is where I thing I have the idles screw to low and it doesn't stick (we'll a bit) but then just drops and dies

Fixing my mess-up made a difference but I still have this problem. I can't find any air leaks so any other iedas from the vids?

Many Thanks

Si

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lc5RzFzrK3g

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkGiGddn9SE

HELP - please

My clr was doing the exact same thing after i stripped the carb. I kept reading about air leaks but there were none, only thing that cured it was altering the pilot screw a tad, as i forgot to count the amount of turns it was at before removing it. I assumed the compression being low was why it wouln't play ball at the default value hence somene had set it to a different one.


What exactly did you do when you cleaned your carbs, ie what did you strip off them? 100% no air leaks? Is it fully warm in this video? and the choke plungers are free?

[5hort5]

yep fully warm just come back from a 10 mile run, I cleaned the carbs out by taking them apart but didn't touch the pilot screw

hit it with a hammer....

try replicate the problem on your spare set

My pointy is doing this now , washed her yesterday and heard a Jingle in the bellypan , reach in there and an exhaust clamp came away in my hand , ordered a new one and will put that on this weekend and see if it cures my problem . I am sure it is not the idle as that is fine , only when the bike is hot after a run does it mess me about ............ I suspect my exhaust needs bolting back together properly after the clamp died on it .

[5hort5]

That's interesting as I have swapped the CCC race can back to the standard can but wouldn't have expected that to cause the issue.