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#11 |
Noisy Git
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Thing that clutch cable is attached to. Has a 10mm nut and screw adjuster in middle of it.
If you WD40d that you have just removed all grease. Strip it down and add some
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#12 |
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Hah, I really should invest in a haynes manual
![]() Any instructions on how to remove the worm drive before I head back? Just undo the nut in the centre? |
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#13 |
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No don't undo that yet. First take pics if you're not confident.
There is little tab you need to bend to get cable out of fitting. Loosen all cable adjusters. Then undo 2 10mm head bolts top and bottom. work in a tray or something as the little BBs can make a bid for freedom if it is worn out when you open mechanism. Clean it all thoroughly, stick it back together with generous amount of LM grease. Spiral track which BBs run in has multiple grooves... so if arm is pointing in different direction when it is back together you need to remove center and put it back in rotated a little. Confusing first time you see it and try to put it back together ![]()
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#14 |
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OK Pic here:
![]() So cable adjusters are those bits at the top?? (scuse the ignorance) Tab you mention is circled in small red? Which way does it bend? 10mm bolts are those other 2 circled I figure. |
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#15 |
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That is not tab I mentioned, tab I am on about holds cable end into that little square thing on end of arm.
Yes those are bolts you remove to remove assembly.
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#16 |
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Sorry if this is frustrating but I gotta learn somehow! Understand which bit you mean now I think. Is the tab you speak of the peice inside the square section attached to the end of the cable? Guess I can pop that out much like a bicycles brake cable?
How do I create the slack to do that? No idea how to slacken off the cable adjusters, which ones they are and which way they should go! |
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#17 |
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That thing with red circle around it at top, you need to loosen it there by slacking off locknuts to allow that peice to move further down.
It is exactly same as a bicycle brake cable... adjusters work same way, if you can do those you can do this. Only difference is there is small tab you need to bend out of the way.
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#18 |
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TY YC! I've slackened the adjuster and got the worm drive off. Now:
After I took the worm drive off I thought I'd clean the bar that connected the worm drive to the innards of the engine, whilst pulling some black gunk off the bar the bar came free in my hand and oil started ****ing onto the floor out of the hole where the bar was. I promptly put the bar back in! Is this normal/desired/broken? ![]() See pic of bits in a bucket. What am I doing with them? Shall I clean them down with WD40? Which bits need regreasing? Those ball bearings have already started to run out, gonna be an **** getting them back in I can tell! ![]() I'm actually quite excited and proud of myself for getting this far :P Also does it HAVE to be LM grease? All I can find at the moment is red bike grease with teflon. Would this be suitable? Last edited by cF^; 12-05-10 at 03:21 PM. |
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#19 |
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the bar you pulled out is the clutch pushrod. you shouldnt really have pulled it out but I dont think it matters too much, except that you could have damaged the oil seal when replacing it. Chances are its fine though.
The surfaces of the worm drive (i.e. where the ball bearings are) need greasing. I dont know what the red bike grease is but if its greasy it'll probably do the job. |
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#20 |
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TY. I didn't expect it to come free in my hand but lesson learnt I guess. Will lube it up and put it all back together and hope the bike still works :P
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