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#11 |
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Why would it apply?
If you squeeze lever pads go out and fluid level down, you push pads in level goes back up where it was. There is no reason to open cap or take any fluid out, he did not change any part of braking system. |
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#12 | |
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Unlikely to be enough to spill the fluid unless you've replaced the pads, but nevertheless worth keeping an eye out for, as per recommendation.
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#13 |
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Ok, I was able to persuade them back far enough with a screwdriver. They are installed and work. This complete my very long and eventful DIY fork seal replacement. I appreciate all of your help.
Fluid appears to be back up to the level it was in the beginning. I did not need to remove the master cap, but thanks for letting me know to keep an eye on things. Better to be safe than sorry. Now I have to figure out why the clutch is dragging. |
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#14 | |
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#15 | |
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Then replace the cable as it may be worn, if no luck after that its a case of opening up the clutch and looking
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#16 |
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One more question. My front brake lever squeaks when I pull it now. When I pull the lever, there is like a button that gets depressed which engages the front brake. That "button" has a rubber covering, this area is where the squeaking is coming from. Should I lube it? and with what type of lube?
Sorry, I don't know the technical terms. I am still learning. |
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#17 |
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How can a worn cable cause clutch drag
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#18 |
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YC it won't, i made the post after 3 hours sleep was not thinking correctly.
there should be a recent thread on clutch issues, the worm gear (a think) can sometimes get full of crud
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#19 | |
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#20 |
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Actually it's a mix of a lowering volume and air pulled in above the fluid chanber, this is what the deformable rubber membrane is for, like wise it will shrink back when returning fluid by pushing back the pistons.
Cheers Mark.
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