Gearbox & selector fix w.i.p pics - Page 2 - SV650.org

muzikill · 29-08-10, 11:42 AM

Ahead of ya on taking the weight off the exhaust, i can still manouvre it back into the front pipe. I just scared of damaging the pipe itself by going 'mad' on it to free it...

By the way the front sprocket was a doddle to remove and the washer intact, i found the easiest way to flatten the lock of the washer was to use a flat punch and did not need to put it in gear as the manuals say. All i had to do was jam the back wheel with a hammer across the swingframe to stop it turning.

dizzyblonde · 29-08-10, 12:21 PM

YC takes em off looking something like this

TamSV · 29-08-10, 12:57 PM

The front downpipe on my curvy was the same. I did as YC suggests - knocked the pipe left and right at the top bend with a hammer and a piece of wood to protect the pipe. I then managed to get a small bit of rotation by working on the bottom bend and it eventually broke loose.

This was the most time consuming bit of dropping the engine for me - you're getting there.

I also had problems with that bottom bolt. It came off OK but when I was refitting the exhaust the captive nut escaped from captivity. I had to jam a screwdriver in the housing to hold the nut and it tightened up OK.

Wasn't a nice feeling when the bolt went loose though - thought I'd sheared it.

muzikill · 30-08-10, 05:16 PM

Yorkie! - it worked 4x4 wood and hammer and taking an eppy at it.

What i also did was scratched a faint line across the casing and where the pipe goes in so when i was hitting it i could see by them going out of alignment if it was moving.

Sorted... heres how the pipes look close up

Front.

Middle joint.

Rear.

Dunno how good they look?!

Here's how the bottom bolt looks to me tam - will have to knock it or drill it out and use a bolt and nut when refitting it.

This certainly was a bigger job than i imagined, now i know how a mechanic must feel when they have to replace dirty & rusted bike exhausts!

Bikes ready for the engine drop, thanks for the advice so far.

ps. my sprocket pics are posted in this thread...
http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.p...84#post2356784

29-08-10, 11:42 AM	#11
muzikill Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Dunfermline Posts: 1,712	Re: Gearbox & selector fix w.i.p pics Ahead of ya on taking the weight off the exhaust, i can still manouvre it back into the front pipe. I just scared of damaging the pipe itself by going 'mad' on it to free it... By the way the front sprocket was a doddle to remove and the washer intact, i found the easiest way to flatten the lock of the washer was to use a flat punch and did not need to put it in gear as the manuals say. All i had to do was jam the back wheel with a hammer across the swingframe to stop it turning. __________________ Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ), drop it & fix it again! K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. Last edited by muzikill; 29-08-10 at 11:47 AM.

29-08-10, 12:21 PM	#12
dizzyblonde Da Cake Boss Mega Poster Join Date: May 2007 Location: On a flying Horse Posts: 9,992	Re: Gearbox & selector fix w.i.p pics YC takes em off looking something like this __________________ Suzy, yellow 2001 SVS. Kitty, V-Raptor 1000, ZZR1400<<its my bike now Pegasus! Hovis 13.8.75-3.10.09 Reeder 20.7.88-21.3.12

29-08-10, 12:57 PM	#13
TamSV Member Mega Poster Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Troon, Ayrshire Posts: 1,812	Re: Gearbox & selector fix w.i.p pics The front downpipe on my curvy was the same. I did as YC suggests - knocked the pipe left and right at the top bend with a hammer and a piece of wood to protect the pipe. I then managed to get a small bit of rotation by working on the bottom bend and it eventually broke loose. This was the most time consuming bit of dropping the engine for me - you're getting there. I also had problems with that bottom bolt. It came off OK but when I was refitting the exhaust the captive nut escaped from captivity. I had to jam a screwdriver in the housing to hold the nut and it tightened up OK. Wasn't a nice feeling when the bolt went loose though - thought I'd sheared it.

30-08-10, 05:16 PM	#14
muzikill Member Mega Poster Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Dunfermline Posts: 1,712	Re: Gearbox & selector fix w.i.p pics Yorkie! - it worked 4x4 wood and hammer and taking an eppy at it. What i also did was scratched a faint line across the casing and where the pipe goes in so when i was hitting it i could see by them going out of alignment if it was moving. Sorted... heres how the pipes look close up Front. Middle joint. Rear. Dunno how good they look?! Here's how the bottom bolt looks to me tam - will have to knock it or drill it out and use a bolt and nut when refitting it. This certainly was a bigger job than i imagined, now i know how a mechanic must feel when they have to replace dirty & rusted bike exhausts! Bikes ready for the engine drop, thanks for the advice so far. ps. my sprocket pics are posted in this thread... http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.p...84#post2356784 __________________ Learn to maintain your bike, take it apart, rebuild the engine & more (using better bolts ), drop it & fix it again! K3 Job c.v: Engine:remove/split/rebuild/refit. Replace:Gearbox,Fuel pump,Gaskets. Piston clean,rings. Overhaul:Throttle body,Injectors,Brakes,Forks. Remove/refit:Exhaust,Radiator,Oil cooler,Throttle,Air filter,Tank. Replace: Oil,Coolant,grease,brake hoses & bleed. Last edited by muzikill; 30-08-10 at 05:26 PM.

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