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#11 | |
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so i TOTALLY FOOOOOKED UP THERE!! lol i did mean leaning it to the left i meant the right... i obviously dont know my left to rights LOL! ![]() |
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#12 |
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If you've just had it serviced I suggest the mechanic isn't as good as you thought!
If you've done a lot of miles since then it means it's burning oil. |
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#13 |
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Your right it's not so much the temperature that matters, but after a motor runs it takes some time for the oil that has been spashed about in the case to slowly drain back down.
Too much oil can be harder on the engine than slightly low. That's why you should check the level cold for a more accurate measurment. Also the heated/recently run oil can be expanded in volume because of the heat and a small amount of air mixed in. Again to get an accurate measurment, wait until the engine is cold. |
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#14 |
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The level change with heat is minimal, a couple of mm at most or "near as makes no differance" I checked mine with the bike cold, ran the engine then let it sit like it says in the handbook* and topped up to just on the lower edge of MAX, with it hot after 15 miles it was still on max with the bike level and vertical on its paddock stand, the slope of dad's drive is about perfect for this.
*Start up the engine and allow it to run for few minutes at idling speed. • Turn off the engine and wait about three minute, then check the oil level through the inspection window OO . If the level is below mark "L" add oil to "F" level . If the level is above mark "F" drain oil to "F" level . If it has just been serviced and is below the L mark then you need to be keeping an eye on the level, mine has dropped about 2mm in 1600 miles. Last edited by Stonesie; 27-02-11 at 03:38 PM. |
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#15 |
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i'm quite sure it's not a 2 person job to check the oil level on the sv, kneel on the rhs of the bike pull it towards you untill the bike is level, and look at the level, if as yc says when you push it to the left then you see the level it is too full, and if pulling towards you, you then see the level it is too low, not rocket science.
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#16 |
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Torquay
Posts: 208
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You really need a padock stand and some rear bobbins for thinks like checking oil, cleaning and most maintenance jobs.
I recently had the oil changed by a local tyre / brake / exhaust type outlet that also does bike MOT's etc. This was necessary as my sump bolt had stuck and the head was stripped by me trying to get it out. They got it out and replaced the sump bolt with 1 I had bought. They did the oil & filter change at the same time which was slightly overdue by now. I checked the oil a couple of weeks later and it was well over the full mark. I was stunned and had to remove the I had left it and went on a long hard ride straight away! |
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#17 |
Noisy Git
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Halifax/Leeds
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Nah you need to learn to check the oil, for checking the oil.
If you need a stand to do it how are you going to do it on a trip out where you've done 500 flat out miles and are way away from home?
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Currently Ex Biker
Now rebuilding a 63' fishing trawler as a dive boat |
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#18 |
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Torquay
Posts: 208
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Sure, you need to be able to check using all methods, which I can do. The stand is usefull incase you lean it too far!
The point I'm making is that I consider some sort of stand a necessity for the SV, or any bike with only a side stand. Even if the manual gives ways of doing things without one. |
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#19 |
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wow, arguing about how to check oil lol
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#20 |
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you should all do what my good friend did, not going to mention his name, but while i helped him to change oil, oil filter, air filter and plugs, he decided to fire up the engine.....without putting the oil filler cap back on......he was not a happy bunny and neither was his mother who's garden we were in at the time.
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Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Checking oil level question. | pwk | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 5 | 27-05-10 08:38 PM |
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checking oil level, engine running or not | ricky | SV Talk, Tuning & Tweaking | 7 | 23-05-08 06:17 PM |
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