Anyone make furniture on here?

This guy is a furniture maker by trade he is S8it hot at it http://www.woodworksuk.com/

He's a bike nut as well (he's on the hunt for a 916 at the minute)

Originally Posted by Wideboy

Yee I'd happly help in what way I can, legs on most modern items are 2x2 but as specialface said older stuff usually tapers. As for the tops, you would join it in equal sections I.e. a 800mm wide top would be 4 sections at maximum (personally) of 200mm joint together with an F joint and glued with the grain going in opposites with the section its glued to, its done like this to prevent twisting and bowing as the sections will move against eachother. Solid timber tops are usually and inch or more thick depending on what timber is, all timbers work differently.

There's never really a set size for components, when ever i make some thing I go to the sizes in think would suit and what quantity of materials I have

And darrens a fibber and smells of wee

use proper dimensions man... sheeesh

I design furniture as my job, if you want some drawings put together let me know....

[SoulKiss]

Thanks for the responses

Come the time I think I wouldto just pic brains/run ideas past people - really would like whatever I come up with to be my own, and dont mind if in doing it the way I want its not quite as good as it could be, just as long as its going to be up to the job.

Not having access to a workshop/specialist tools is probably going to be my biggest problem.

[Wideboy]

Originally Posted by 454697819

use proper dimensions man... sheeesh

I design furniture as my job, if you want some drawings put together let me know....

I use both imperial and metric, my stuffs so old its still in imperial

[embee]

It's going to depend a lot on what timber you're using, typical softwood these days isn't particularly strong in small sections, and you need to be picky about selecting straight grained sections free from large knots etc. I'd say a typical seat/smal table is going to be nominal 2"x2" legs, which will be nearer 1 3/4" planed (PAR, planed all round), and I'd use stretchers/rails between the legs if they were more than say 12" high.

If you use decent hardwoods, oak or something, then sections can be smaller just because it's a much stronger timber to start with.

As said by others, it depends a lot on how you're constructing it and how much loading is going into the joints.

I tend to go for heavyweight stuff, I can't be doing with slender. This was a garden table I did last year for someone, I'd picked up some cast iron gratings (chapel floor vents) and they commissioned the table from me. This used 100mm square (4x4) green oak, sturdy stuff. It weighs about 250kg all in. The oak wasn't that expensive, just under £100 from a yard in Corby, but came sawn so a fair amount of picking and sizing to be done. The joints are stub mortise and tenon, with big flatpack style bolting (M10 stainless bolts and 3/4" diameter stainless cross pins drilled and tapped)

Oh man , that is Niiiiiiiice , I would have something like that in my garden when done , durability over the years if left outside ?

[embee]

Originally Posted by xXBADGERXx

Oh man , that is Niiiiiiiice , I would have something like that in my garden when done , durability over the years if left outside ?

It's been oiled with tung oil several times, supposed to be the ideal stuff for oak, and it has a loose fitting waterproof cover (customer sourced it online) over it to keep rain off but allow air to circulate. It's gone through last winter absolutely fine. The oak is still seasoning and shrinking, I've had to give it a "service" and tighten all the bolts up, but that was partly why it was done in that way, to allow for movement. We've just re-laid the patio it is on so we had to move it a couple of weeks ago, no hernias.