Idle Banter For non SV and non bike related chat (and the odd bit of humour - but if any post isn't suitable it'll get deleted real quick).![]() |
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#11 |
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I disagree about migs being unsuitable for thin gauge steel, a good quality industrial mig will weld very thin metal no problem as you have very fine adjustments on the panel.
My sip turbo mig on the other hand is the opposite, thin stuff is very difficult to do with it as it's a bit crude. |
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#12 |
Noisy Git
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If you want to do TIG aluminium you need AC TIG, which is expensive.
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Now rebuilding a 63' fishing trawler as a dive boat |
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#13 | |
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when i was researching to buy one that was the general consensus. Spend some money and buy one with as many power settings as possible. |
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#14 |
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#15 |
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Ac tig, cost a load of dosh for a decent one. Weld area needs to be as clean as poss, and will need a load more amps than what you would use on mild/stainless steel. I used to describe it as welding chewing gum
![]() I have done everything from repairing ally road tanker chassis (shed loads of amps) to rebuilding the edges on outboard props(tiny amps!)... still hate the stuff! Lightweight mig's are ok for sticking ally together, but it doesn't penetrate anywhere near what a tig weld with the right amps would. Never used a tig on dc for ally, or ever been asked to by any of the places I've worked ![]() Main point to remember is that ally dissapates the heat from the ark very well, so it takes either more amps or a long wait for the weld pool heat to build, (or a quick blast with a heating torch to get things going quicker ![]() |
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#16 |
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TIG welding is just wrong , we don't wright , right to left , so why weld that way?
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